David lebovitz, p.1

David Lebovitz, page 1

 

David Lebovitz
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David Lebovitz


  Copyright © 2010, 2025 by David Lebovitz

  Photographs copyright © 2025 by Ed Anderson

  Penguin Random House values and supports copyright. Copyright fuels creativity, encourages diverse voices, promotes free speech, and creates a vibrant culture. Thank you for buying an authorized edition of this book and for complying with copyright laws by not reproducing, scanning, or distributing any part of it in any form without permission. You are supporting writers and allowing Penguin Random House to continue to publish books for every reader. Please note that no part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner for the purpose of training artificial intelligence technologies or systems.

  All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, 1745 Broadway, New York, NY 10019.

  Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.

  Originally published in hardcover and in somewhat different form by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, in 2010. Certain recipes in this work, some in different form, were originally published in Room for Dessert (New York: HarperCollins Publishers, 1999) and Ripe for Dessert (New York: HarperCollins Publishers, 2003).

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Names: Lebovitz, David, author. | Anderson, Ed (Edward Charles), photographer.

  Title: Ready for dessert: my favorite recipes / David Lebovitz; photography by Ed Anderson.

  Description: Revised edition.

  Identifiers: LCCN 2024039596 (print) | LCCN 2024039597 (ebook) | ISBN 9780593836293 (hardcover) | ISBN 9780593836309 (ebook).

  Subjects: LCSH: Desserts. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.

  Classification: LCC TX773 .L383 2025 (print) | LCC TX773 (ebook) | DDC 541.86—dc23/eng/20240910

  LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2024039596

  LC ebook record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2024039597

  Hardcover ISBN 9780593836293

  Ebook ISBN 9780593836309

  Editor: Julie Bennett

  Production editor: Joyce Wong

  Art director and print designer: Betsy Stromberg

  Print production designers: Mari Gill and Faith Hague

  Print production: Jane Chinn

  Food stylists: George Dolese and Elisabet der Nederlanden

  Copy editor: Heather Rodino

  Proofreaders: Rachel Holzman, Miriam Garron

  Indexer: Elizabeth Parson

  Publicist: Kristin Casemore

  Marketer: Allison Renzulli

  Ebook production manager: Eric Tessen

  tenspeed.com

  penguinrandomhouse.com

  Revised Edition

  The authorized representative in the EU for product safety and compliance is Penguin Random House Ireland, Morrison Chambers, 32 Nassau Street, Dublin D02 YH68, Ireland.

  rhid_prh_7.1_153157671_c0_r0

  contents

  introduction

  ingredients

  equipment

  cakes

  pies, tarts, and fruit desserts

  custards, soufflés, and puddings

  frozen desserts

  cookies and candies

  basics, sauces, and preserves

  caramelization guidelines

  resources

  acknowledgments

  index

  about the author

  _153157671_

  _153157671_

  recipes list

  cakes

  Marjolaine

  Chocolate pavé

  Chocolate orbit cake

  Devil’s food cake

  Racines cake

  Gâteau victoire

  Chocolate-cherry fruitcake

  Maple-walnut pear cake

  Date-nut torte

  Persimmon cake with cream cheese icing

  Guinness-gingerbread cupcakes

  Irish coffee cupcakes

  Plum-blueberry upside-down cake

  Nectarine-raspberry upside-down gingerbread

  Buckwheat cake with cider-poached apples

  Spiced plum streusel cake with toffee glaze

  Cherry gâteau basque

  Kumquat sticky toffee puddings

  Fresh ginger cake

  New York cheesecake

  Pumpkin cheesecake with pecan crust and whiskey-caramel topping

  Ricotta cheesecake with orange and anise

  Pistachio-cardamom cake

  Polenta cake with olive oil and rosemary

  Coconut cake

  Passion fruit pound cake

  Banana cake with mocha frosting and salted candied peanuts

  Lemon semifreddo

  Peach-mascarpone semifreddo

  Bahamian rum cake

  pies, tarts, and fruit desserts

  Butternut squash pie

  Mixed berry pie

  Lime-marshmallow pie

  Banana butterscotch cream pie

  Concord grape pie

  Peanut butter and jelly linzertorte

  Apple-quince tarte Tatin

  Apple tart with whole-wheat puff pastry and maple-walnut sauce

  Apple-frangipane galette

  Apple tart Normande

  Pear tart with brown butter, rum, and pecans

  Chocolate ganache custard tart

  Caramelized macadamia tart

  Apricot-marzipan tart

  Freestyle lemon tartlets with white chocolate sauce

  Easy jam tart

  Cashew, date, and fresh ginger tart

  Tartlettes au sirop d’érable

  Fresh fig and raspberry tart with honey

  Cherry-almond cobbler

  Apple-pear crisp with rum-soaked raisins and polenta topping

  Peach-amaretti crisp

  Pineapple, rhubarb, and raspberry cobbler

  Nectarine-berry cobbler with fluffy biscuits

  Baked apples with ginger, dates, and walnuts

  Very spicy baked pears with caramel

  Peaches in red wine

  Blackberry–brown butter financiers

  Summer pudding

  Champagne gelée with kumquats, grapefruits, and blood oranges

  Pavlova

  Tropical fruit soup with coconut sherbet and meringue

  custards, soufflés, and puddings

  Bittersweet chocolate mousse with pear and fig chutney

  Chocolate pots de crème

  Butterscotch flan

  Orange-cardamom flan

  Lemon-ginger crème brûlée

  Black currant tea crème brûlée

  Banana soufflés

  Super-lemon soufflés

  Chocolate-caramel soufflés

  Buttermilk panna cotta with blueberry compote

  Riz au lait with salted butter caramel and nougatine

  Orange-almond bread pudding

  Coconut tapioca pudding

  Coffee-caramel custards

  Île flottante

  frozen desserts

  Vanilla ice cream

  Caramel ice cream

  Chocolate gelato

  Mexican chocolate ice cream

  White chocolate–ginger ice cream with chocolate-covered peanuts

  No-churn chocolate-banana ice cream

  Milk chocolate chip–amaro ice cream

  Butterscotch-pecan ice cream

  Chocolate-coconut sherbet

  Fresh mint sherbet with figs roasted in Chartreuse and honey

  Toasted coconut sherbet

  Pink grapefruit–Champagne sorbet cocktail

  Simple cherry sorbet

  Wine grape sorbet

  Blood orange sorbet surprise

  Sangría sorbet

  Chocolate-tangerine sorbet

  Passion fruit–tangerine sorbet

  Meyer lemon sorbet

  Margarita sorbet with salted peanut crisps

  Strawberry-mango sorbet

  Blackberry sorbet

  White nectarine sorbet with blackberries in five-spice cookie cups

  Red wine–raspberry sorbet

  Anise-orange ice cream profiteroles with chocolate sauce

  Frozen caramel mousse with sherry-glazed pears, chocolate, and salted almonds

  Tangy lemon frozen yogurt

  Berries Romanoff with frozen sour cream

  Blanco y negro

  Frozen nougat

  Frozen sabayon with blood orange soup

  Kiwifruit, pineapple, and coconut baked Alaska

  cookies and candies

  Chocolate chocolate-chip cookies

  Chocolate chip cookies

  Buckwheat chocolate chip cookies

  Chocolate crackled cookies

  Flo’s chocolate snaps

  Black and white cookies

  Peanut butter cookies

  Brown sugar–pecan shortbread

  Gingersnaps

  Nonfat gingersnaps

  Zimtsterne

  Robert’s ultimate brownies

  Cheesecake brownies

  Palets bretons

  Cranzac co

okies

  Chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons

  Orange–poppy seed sandwich cookies

  Green tea financiers

  Mexican wedding cookies

  Croquants

  Amaretti

  Sesame-orange almond tuiles

  Pecan-butterscotch tuiles

  Lemon quaresimali cookies

  Almond and chocolate chunk biscotti

  Peppery chocolate-cherry biscotti

  Chocolate-port truffles

  Almond ding

  Spiced candied pecans

  Quince paste

  Pistachio, almond, and dried cherry bark

  basics, sauces, and preserves

  Tart dough

  Pie dough

  Galette dough

  Sponge cake

  Frangipane

  Pâte à choux puffs

  Pastry cream

  Crème anglaise

  Champagne sabayon

  Whipped cream

  Salted butter caramel sauce

  Cognac caramel sauce

  Orange caramel sauce

  Tangerine butterscotch sauce

  Bittersweet chocolate sauce

  Rich chocolate sauce

  White chocolate sauce

  Orange-rhubarb sauce

  Raspberry sauce

  Mango sauce

  Strawberry sauce

  Blackberry sauce

  Blueberry compote

  Candied cherries

  Candied ginger

  Soft-candied citrus peel

  Candied orange peel

  Seville orange marmalade

  Pineapple-ginger marmalade

  Quince marmalade

  Plum-strawberry jam

  Fig jam

  Apricot jam

  Nocino

  Vin d’orange

  introduction

  Back in 1999, I hit a button on my computer and launched what may have been the very first food blog. It was ingeniously called davidlebovitz.com, and the first thing I posted on it was this message: “Welcome to my web site. I hope you come back often.”

  I started the site when my first book, Room for Dessert, was about to be published, and I thought it would be a good way for people to get in touch with me in case they had questions about the recipes. Julia Child and Marion Cunningham famously kept their telephone numbers listed in the phone book, but with this newfangled thing called “the internet,” I thought I’d make it even easier for people to get in touch with me.

  Two decades, 2,261 posts and recipes, 130,185 comments—and many (…too many) tech-related nervous breakdowns—later, that chapter of my life can now be filed under the “Be Careful What You Wish For” category.

  At the height of its popularity, my blog was getting 1.8 million visitors each month. During those same years, I also wrote several cookbooks as well as two memoirs about my exhilarating, but sometimes disorienting, life in Paris. Unfortunately, none of my books ever sold 1.8 million copies, but my first book did well enough to get me a contract to write another, and then another, and then another.

  * * *

  —

  While a lot has happened during these decades, the last few years have been a head-spinning time for food and cooking. Social media serves up rapid-fire clips of food, such as the rolling, baking, and ripping open of a croissant accompanied by audio-enhanced, ear-splitting crispiness (a trend that was gladly brief), or an eight-story wedding cake being assembled, thanks to time-lapse photography, in a mere ten seconds. As someone who’s spent half of his life writing recipes, I marvel at the sheer number of recipes available online. I once asked a friend who headed up a major social media food account, one that posted more than a dozen recipes daily (condensed into twenty-second clips), how they came up with all those recipes. He laughed and said, “David, none of those recipes work.”

  Call me naive, but it never occurred to me that you would share a recipe that wasn’t meant to be made. Sharing recipes is one of the great joys of being a baker, and over the years, I’ve been happy to share my favorite recipes, and have others share their favorite recipes with me. Baking is about sharing—no one bakes a cake or batch of cookies just for themselves. We do it to share with others. And that’s why my best friends are bakers.

  * * *

  —

  My life has certainly changed from when I was rolling pastry, slicing strawberries, juicing tangerines, and melting chocolate in the pastry kitchen at Chez Panisse. I moved to France, wrote cookbooks, and adapted to life in another country and culture. I never dreamed life would bring me to where I am today. (Although I still can’t grasp all those tricky French verbs.) The occasional language gaffes, challenges navigating the intricacies of French politesse, an inability to get on top of the piles of (un?)necessary French paperwork, which native French people also struggle with, and my passport are all proof that I’m officially French, too.

  I’ve also changed how I shop, cook, and bake since my move. French people don’t bake at home with the same ferocity as people in the United States do; they leave the bread-baking to their local boulanger or boulangère. In fact, there’s no term for “home baker” in French. We hit the bakery in the morning for croissants and brioche, a baguette or slice of quiche for lunch, a buttery Palet breton (this page) or bag of chouquettes (sugar-crusted cream puffs) for an afternoon goûter (snack), and a gâteau Opéra or tarte au citron (lemon tart) for after-dinner dessert. This is one of the rituals of daily life in France, and people wouldn’t dream of trying to outdo their local pastry shop.

  * * *

  —

  Like most French people, I now bake more simply at home—but I do get a kick out of surprising French friends with something like a Devil’s food cake (this page) on their birthdays. Few can resist the chocolate ganache frosting, which is more than just the icing on the cake. It’s my way of bridging both cultures.

  French people are particularly delighted when their host makes dessert for them. They don’t expect professional-level perfection from their friends and family, and sometimes cakes will come to the table a little lopsided, the edges of a tart might have shrunk in the oven, or the profiterole puffs didn’t rise as lofty as expected. It’s all okay; flaws are considered part of the charm of a homemade dessert. People are just thankful that someone baked for them, no matter how humble the dish.

  * * *

  —

  For this new edition of the book, I’ve updated many of the recipes, retested and tweaked a few, and added some new standouts, including my all-time favorite French bistro dessert, Île flottante (floating islands; this page), so you too can enjoy it—without buying an airplane ticket. I simplified my gâteau basque (Basque cake; this page) recipe so it’s easier to make at home. And I retoggled my Chocolate chip cookies (this page) to be even softer and chewier. I just couldn’t resist making an already good thing even better.

  Although lots of things have changed over the years, my tastes remain the same. I want a chocolate cake that has the intensity of dark, bittersweet chocolate. I want to bite into a coconut macaroon (this page) with a crisp exterior and chewy, coconutty interior. (And why not add a swipe of dark chocolate on the bottom?) I don’t think candy needs to be complicated, and Almond ding (this page) pings all the right notes: crunchy, caramelized nuts with a touch of butter and a soupçon of sea salt.

  You’ll find that one of my favorite flavors, caramel, makes its way into many of the desserts in this book, from creamy Coffee-caramel custards (this page) to Very spicy baked pears with caramel (this page). And because some of you may need a little help making caramel, you’ll find a tutorial under Caramelization Guidelines (this page) that’ll guide you to sweet success.

  I was so happy to move a few years ago, just down the street from one of my favorite Paris bakeries, and am even happier to share my version of their Tartlettes au sirop d’érable (maple tarts; this page). And while you may have tasted rice pudding in the past, I have learned some pro tips to making a Riz au lait (this page) that is so good that even my partner, Romain, who has refused to eat rice pudding because of the many mediocre versions he was served in school cafeterias growing up, always scrapes the bowl clean. (The nutty nougat and salted butter caramel sauce to accompany it also helps.)

  I hope you enjoy this compendium of my favorite recipes, ones that I turn to again and again. I was thrilled to have the chance to revisit these dishes in my Paris kitchen and couldn’t be happier to, once again, share them with you. Bon appétit!

 

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