David Lebovitz, page 6
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk together the egg yolks and ½ cup (100g) granulated sugar on high speed until the mixture leaves a well-defined ribbon on the surface when you lift the beater, about 5 minutes. Fold in the melted chocolate mixture until fully incorporated.
In a clean, dry bowl and with a clean whip attachment, whisk the egg whites and salt on low speed until they form soft, wet peaks. Gradually beat in the remaining ½ cup (100g) granulated sugar, increase the speed to high, and continue whisking until the whites hold stiff peaks. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture just until there are no visible streaks of whites. Don’t overfold.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and gently smooth the top. Bake until just barely set in the center (it should still feel jiggly), about 35 minutes. The cake will rise as it bakes and form a slightly crackly top. Let cool for about 15 minutes.
Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Invert the cake onto a plate, peel off the parchment paper, and reinvert it onto a large platter or cutting board. Let cool completely.
Dust the top of the cake with powdered sugar and cut the cake into squares. Dip a fork in melted chocolate and wave it back and forth over the cake, creating an abstract design on top.
Serving: Serve each slab with a scoop of ice cream, a spoonful of whipped cream (this page), or in a pool of crème anglaise (this page) with Salted butter caramel (this page) on top.
Storage: This cake is best served the day it’s made.
Tip: Leftover bits of chocolate pavé (not that you’ll have any, but if you do…) are wonderful crumbled into just-churned ice cream, especially Caramel ice cream (this page). You might even want to bake this just to fold it into ice cream.
chocolate orbit cake
Makes one 9-inch (23cm) cake; 12 to 14 servings
I developed this foolproof recipe when I was consulting for a restaurant that didn’t have a full-time pastry staff. That meant the dessert had to be easy to make, be able to keep for a few days with no change in quality, and not require a lot of skill. This is the cake I created. It’s impossible to mess up, so it was nicknamed Chocolate Idiot Cake because anyone could make it, regardless of their baking expertise.
A few years later, I made it in another restaurant and someone commented that the surface of the cake looked lunar, so it was rechristened with a kinder, gentler name: Chocolate orbit cake.
This is the perfect cake for anyone who may not be so adept in the kitchen. No matter what you call it, it’ll launch anyone, of any skill level, into chocolate heaven.
16 tablespoons (8 ounces/225g) unsalted butter, cubed
12 ounces (340g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
6 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup (200g) sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23cm) springform pan or round cake pan. If using a springform pan, wrap a large sheet of aluminum foil around the outside of the pan, making sure it’s absolutely watertight. If using a cake pan, line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper. Set the springform or cake pan in a large roasting pan.
In a large heatproof bowl, combine the butter and chocolate. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and wipe the bottom dry with a kitchen towel.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar, then whisk in the melted chocolate mixture until completely incorporated.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and cover it tightly with aluminum foil. Pour very warm water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the outside of the cake pan. Bake until the cake appears to be set and your finger comes away clean when you gently touch the center (it will still feel quite soft), about 1 hour 15 minutes. Remove the cake from the water bath and let cool completely.
To unmold, run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. If you’ve used a springform pan, simply release the sides. If you’ve used a regular cake pan, invert the cake onto a plate, peel off the parchment paper, then reinvert onto a serving platter.
Serving: This cake is an overload of chocolate, so serve it in small wedges, accompanied with whipped cream (this page), crème anglaise (this page), or a scoop of Caramel ice cream (this page). Chocolate curls and shavings are elegant garnishes.
Storage: This cake can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.
devil’s food cake
Makes one, two-layer 8-inch (20cm) cake; 10 to 12 servings
Parisians have taken to chocolate chip cookies, which are simply referred to as les cookies, in addition to les brownies and le cheesecake, but you won’t find a gâteau à étage (multilayer cake) in a bakery. Yet every once in a while, I get a hankering for one, and this one never fails to impress.
Traditionally devil’s food cake is made with natural cocoa powder (such as Hershey’s), which, when mixed with baking soda, gives the cake a devilish red tint. Nowadays, most people tend to turn up their noses at brands such as Hershey’s, but—surprisingly—I think this cake tastes just right with it. It’s possible that it’s because it reminds me of my childhood, which I’m happy to reexperience as a (mostly) well-adjusted adult, especially when it’s in the form of a chocolate cake.
On the other hand, I think I lost a quarter of my followers on Instagram when I posted a photo of the Hershey’s tin in my Paris kitchen. So, I’ll add that I also like the flavor of this cake made with Valrhona cocoa powder, which has the deepest, darkest chocolate flavor of all the cocoa powders I’ve used, and is French. As a bonus, it’ll strengthen your foodie cred. (Although it will also lighten your wallet.) In the United States, Guittard Cocoa Rouge Dutch-process has the same robust flavor as the French cocoa and works well in this cake, too.
cake
2 cups (280g) cake or all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup (70g) unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process)
½ cup (125ml) hot water or strong coffee
1 cup (240g) sour cream or buttermilk
8 tablespoons (4 ounces/115g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup (150g) granulated sugar
¾ cup (135g) packed dark brown sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
ganache frosting
8 ounces (225g) bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons (90ml) heavy cream
8 tablespoons (4 ounces/115g) unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter two 8-inch (20cm) round cake pans. Dust with flour and tap out the excess. Line the bottoms with circles of parchment paper.
To make the cake, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.
Put the cocoa in a medium bowl and pour the hot water over it. Stir until it’s a paste. It won’t be smooth yet, but stir in the sour cream, then whisk until smooth. Set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or by hand), beat 8 tablespoons (115g) butter, the sugars, and vanilla at high speed for 5 minutes, until well combined, stopping the mixer midway and scraping down the sides of the bowl.
Reduce the mixer speed to medium, and add the eggs one at a time, stopping the mixer after each addition to scrape down the sides of the bowl. After adding the eggs, mix for 1 minute at medium-high speed.
Turn the mixer to the lowest speed and add half of the dry ingredients, then add the cocoa mixture. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer and use a flexible spatula to mix in the rest of the dry ingredients, stirring just until no bits of flour are visible. Don’t overmix.
Divide the batter between the two prepared pans and use a spatula to spread it into even layers. Bake until the center of one of the cakes feels just about set, about 20 minutes. A toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean. Let the cakes cool completely on a wire cooling rack.
To make the ganache frosting, in a medium heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate and cream. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir occasionally with a whisk until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat, wipe the bottom dry with a kitchen towel, and add 8 tablespoons (115g) butter in small bits, using your fingers to break it into smaller pieces as you add it, which will warm it up and help it meld with the chocolate. Stir gently with the whisk until smooth. If there are still visible bits of butter, whisk a few times with a bit more determination but avoid aerating the mixture.
Let the frosting rest, stirring it occasionally with a flexible spatula until it’s thick and spreadable, the consistency of chocolate pudding. When you lift a spatula-ful of the frosting, it should softly hold its shape when you let it fall back into the bowl. It’ll take about 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the temperature of your kitchen.
Run a knife around the sides of the cakes to help loosen them from the pans. Remove the cakes from the pans, then peel off the parchment paper. Put one layer on a flat dinner plate or serving platter. Spoon about one-quarter of the frosting on top of the cake layer and spread it evenly over the top. Place the other layer on top of it and spread the rest of the frosting over the top and sides.
Storage: This cake can be kept for up to 3 days at room temperature.
Tip: You can also bake the cake in two 9-inch (23cm) cake pans. The baking time will be the same but make the ganache frosting with 10 ounces (285g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, ½ cup (125ml) heavy cream, and 10 tablespoons (140g) unsalted butter.
racines cake
Makes one 9-inch (23cm) cake; 10 to 12 servings
Inspiration can strike at the strangest times—and in the unlikeliest places. I was in the men’s room of Racines, a restaurant in Paris. While I was momentarily preoccupied with other things, my mind wandered and I scanned the wall facing me, which was plastered with poems and drawings from local artists. Much to my surprise, in the midst of it all was a recipe for chocolate cake.
When I returned to my table, I noticed a chocolate cake with the same name on the menu, so I ordered it. It was so delicious that I excused myself again, this time taking a piece of paper and pen with me.
Though the restaurant has changed owners since then, I’ll never forget how good that cake was, baked with a handful of cocoa nibs strewn over the top. Cocoa nibs are roasted bits of unsweetened cocoa beans, and they’re widely available nowadays. Their decidedly bitter chocolate crunch makes a big difference in the flavor and texture of this cake, but you can leave them off if you can’t find them.
Cocoa powder for preparing the pan
10 ounces (280g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
8 tablespoons (4 ounces/115g) salted butter, cubed
1 tablespoon freshly brewed espresso
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
¼ cup (50g) plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cocoa nibs
Powdered sugar for dusting the cake (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23cm) springform pan, dust it with a bit of cocoa, and tap out any excess.
In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate, butter, and espresso. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and wipe the bottom dry with a towel, then stir in the vanilla.
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or by hand), whisk together the egg yolks and the ¼ cup (50g) granulated sugar on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and creamy, about 1 minute.
In a clean, dry bowl and with a clean whip attachment (or by hand), whisk the egg whites on low speed until they begin to hold their shape. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, raise the speed to high, and continue whisking until the whites hold soft peaks.
Fold the egg yolk mixture into the melted chocolate mixture, then fold in half of the egg white mixture. Fold in the remaining whites, mixing just until there are no visible streaks of whites. Don’t overfold.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, sprinkle with cocoa nibs, and bake until the cake feels as though it’s just barely set in the center, about 25 minutes. It shouldn’t feel too firm. Let cool completely.
Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the pan and dust the cake with powdered sugar, if using.
Serving: The suggested accompaniment in the original recipe was whipped cream scented with orange-flower water. But the cake also goes well with a scoop of ice cream and a dousing of Bittersweet chocolate sauce (this page).
Storage: The cake is best served the day it’s made, although it can be kept for up to 2 days at room temperature.
Tip: Cocoa nibs can be found in well-stocked supermarkets or online (see Resources, this page).
gâteau victoire
Makes one 9-inch (23cm) cake; 10 to 12 servings
Of all the cakes in the flourless genre, this Gâteau victoire has the best texture and richest chocolate flavor of them all. It’s so velvety moist that I recommend you cut it with a length of dental floss instead of a knife—even at the risk of getting some funny looks from your dinner guests, who might think that you’re preparing to brush your teeth and call it a night.
12 ounces (340g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
¾ cup (180ml) heavy cream
3 tablespoons dark rum, Cognac, brandy, or port
6 large eggs, at room temperature
6 tablespoons (75g) granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
Powdered sugar for dusting the cake
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23cm) springform pan. Wrap a large sheet of aluminum foil around the outside of the pan, making sure it’s absolutely watertight. Set the pan in a large roasting pan.
In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate, cream, and rum. Set the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and wipe the bottom dry with a kitchen towel.
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk together the eggs, granulated sugar, and salt on medium speed until the mixture is thick and leaves a well-defined ribbon on the surface when you lift the beater, about 5 minutes.
Fold one-third of the egg mixture into the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Then, fold in the rest.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and pour very warm water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the outside of the springform pan. Bake until the cake feels just set in the center, about 45 minutes. Remove the cake from the water bath and let cool completely.
Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan and dust the cake with powdered sugar.
Accompaniment: A colorful cranberry, prune, and kumquat sauce is a brightly flavored wintery addition to serve alongside this cake during the holidays. Heat 2 cups (500ml) of port and ½ cup (100g) of sugar in a small saucepan. Add 12 pitted prunes, quartered, and ⅔ cup (75g) dried cranberries to the pan and simmer for 4 minutes. Add 12 sliced and seeded kumquats and simmer for 1 minute more.
Storage: This cake is best served the day it’s made, although it can be kept overnight at room temperature.
Tip: Dental floss pulled taut between your fingers works best for cutting neat slices of this delicate cake, but you can also use a sharp knife dipped in very hot water, wiped dry before and after each cut.
chocolate-cherry fruitcake
Makes two 8½-inch (22cm) loaf cakes
To boost the reputation of the much-maligned fruitcake, I wanted to create a version quite different from those sticky, supersweet loaves riddled with iridescent fruit and soggy pecans. This recipe is my answer: an exceptionally moist loaf, chockablock with freshly toasted nuts, perky dried cherries, and a double wallop of chocolate flavor, courtesy of cocoa powder and lots of chocolate chips.
I am glad that my modern-tasting fruitcake made converts out of those who tried it. But I didn’t expect that so many would want to give it a traditional soaking of spirits to preserve the cake. I set to work and experimented a few times, but I had a hunch that something was amiss when I noticed some movement underneath the gauze wrapping. I unwrapped the cake and…well, let’s just say I discovered that I wasn’t the only creature who enjoys this fruitcake. That was the end of my experiments. Instead, I use a kirsch-flavored glaze that can be added at the last minute.
Note that this cake has a tendency to sigh a bit in the middle as it cools, which is normal.
fruitcake
1½ cups (180g) dried sour cherries, coarsely chopped
⅓ cup (80ml) plus 6 tablespoons (90ml) kirsch or light rum
1¼ cups (175g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (50g) unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process
1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably aluminum-free
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons (5 ounces/145g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups (300g) granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
