David Lebovitz, page 24
While the ice cream is churning, put the bittersweet chocolate in a small bowl. Set the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water, making sure not to get any water or steam in the chocolate, which can cause it to seize. Stir gently until the chocolate is completely melted.
Remove the bowl of chocolate from the saucepan and dry the bottom of the bowl with a kitchen towel. When the ice cream is ready, while the ice cream machine is running, slowly drizzle the melted chocolate into the ice cream as the dasher (mixing blade) is turning to make “chips.” If the chocolate starts clumping around the dasher, stop the machine and break up the chocolate with a butter knife. If your ice cream machine doesn’t allow you to pour in the chocolate while the ice cream is churning, layer the ice cream into a chilled container, drizzling chocolate over the layers as you go, and stirring the mixture with a spoon or butter knife to break up the chocolate bits. Don’t dip the same spoon that you used to stir the ice cream back into the melted chocolate as any bits of ice cream in it can also cause the melted chocolate to seize.
Note: Because amari can vary in flavor and strength, taste the mixture before churning and add an additional tablespoon, if desired.
butterscotch-pecan ice cream
Makes about 1 quart (1L)
We didn’t have a lot of desserts when I was growing up. I wasn’t entirely dessert deprived, but sweets were few and far between. (Obviously, I’ve made up for lost time.) One treat my parents did keep on hand was a bag of store-bought pecan shortbreads, which were quite thick and known for their sandy, sable-like texture, and seemed more sophisticated and “adult” than the other cookies in the supermarket aisle.
Now that I’m all grown up and can enjoy pecans any way I choose, I’ve added this ice cream to my repertoire of treats, which combines the crunchy, buttery, and slightly salty deliciousness of those cookies in every spoonful.
6 tablespoons (75g) granulated sugar
¾ cup (135g) packed dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/55g) unsalted or salted butter, cubed
½ cup (125ml) plus 1½ cups (375ml) heavy cream
¾ cup (180ml) half-and-half or whole milk
½ teaspoon salt
6 large egg yolks
1½ cups (150g) pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped
Before preparing this recipe, see Caramelization Guidelines, this page.
To make the butterscotch mixture, spread the granulated sugar in an even layer in a medium, heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat without stirring until the sugar begins to melt on the bottom of the pan or around the edges. Using a heatproof spatula, slowly drag the liquified sugar to the center and stir gently until all the sugar is melted. Continue to cook, stirring infrequently, until the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the brown sugar, butter, the ½ cup (125ml) cream, the half-and-half, and salt. The mixture will steam and bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside.
Pour the remaining 1½ cups (375ml) cream into a large bowl and set a fine-mesh strainer across the top.
In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm butterscotch mixture, whisking constantly as you pour to prevent the eggs from cooking. Pour the warmed yolks back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the fine-mesh strainer into the cream.
Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Stir the pecans into the just-churned ice cream when you remove it from the ice cream machine.
Variation: Use 1½ cups (150g) of Spiced candied pecans (this page) in place of the plain pecans.
Tip: Because brown sugar is acidic, the mixture can look curdled during the custard-making process. Not to worry; it’ll smooth out during cooking.
chocolate-coconut sherbet
Makes about 1 quart (1L)
In case anyone thinks that the internet is an unfriendly, impersonal place, I’ve got evidence to prove you wrong. One day, completely out of the blue, I received an email from a waitress who worked at a restaurant where I’d been the pastry chef years ago, saying that not only did I have the sweetest smile but that she loved the sherbets and sorbets that I made there. I don’t know which compliment was more touching, but I take all compliments whenever I can, and via whatever medium they are sent.
This was one of the sherbets I made at that restaurant, where I remember another server taking a bite and her face lighting up. “This tastes like a Mounds bar!” she exclaimed with a mix of surprise and delight. For me, that was another compliment, since that’s one of my favorite candy bars. Like her, I find the combination of chocolate and coconut absolutely delightful.
1 cup (250ml) water
1 cup (200g) sugar
5 ounces (140g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 cups (500ml) canned coconut milk
1 to 2 tablespoons dark rum
In a medium saucepan, bring the water and sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate, and whisk until the chocolate is completely melted. Stir in the coconut milk and 1 tablespoon of the rum.
Pour the mixture into a blender and process until completely smooth. Taste and add 1 tablespoon more rum, if desired. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Scoopable Sorbets and Sherbets
Over the years, people have told me they love ice cream…but maybe a little too much. (I hear you!) That’s why I also serve sherbets, ice cream’s leaner cousin, made with milk rather than cream and without any egg yolks, as well as sorbets, which have no dairy and tend to be fruit-based. I like them because they’re extra refreshing and you won’t feel guilty about eating a second scoop, plus their flavors are more intense since there’s no cream or eggs getting in the way.
Because sherbets contain very little fat, which is what keeps ice cream from getting too hard, they’ll get harder in the freezer than ice cream the longer they’re in there. Fruit-based sorbets will also get firm since they’re mostly made of fruit, which is about 90 percent water, and if you’ve ever had an ice cube (which I’m sure you’ve had), you know how hard water freezes.
Sorbets and sherbets are easiest to scoop within a few hours of churning. If you do store them in the freezer longer than that, take them out 5 minutes or so before serving to give them time to soften a bit. Zapping them in the microwave at half-power, in 5 second intervals and checking the texture between each, can also do the trick.
fresh mint sherbet
with figs roasted in chartreuse and honey
Makes about 5 cups (1.25L) sherbet; 6 to 8 servings
When I planted mint in my garden, everyone warned, “Watch out. It’s going to spread everywhere and you’ll have too much!” Perhaps that’s a bad thing for some people, but for me, it’s been great. I love having an abundance of fresh mint, and when I dive into a scoop of this minty sherbet, I’m reaping the benefits of being someone who, more often than not, does what people tell me not to do.
Unlike ice cream, sherbet is made with milk, and no cream or eggs, so I never feel guilty about indulging in a couple of scoops, especially when they’re paired with roasted figs, but it’s also very refreshing served with fresh berries, a salad of orange segments spiked with a bit of orange liqueur, or alongside a rich chocolate cake, such as the Gâteau victoire (this page).
mint sherbet
4 cups (1L) whole milk
¾ cup (150g) sugar
2 cups (80g) lightly packed fresh mint leaves, plus a few leaves for mixing into the finished sherbet
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
Pinch of salt
figs roasted with chartreuse and honey
1 pound (450g) fresh figs
3 tablespoons green Chartreuse
2 tablespoons honey
3 sprigs fresh thyme
To make the sherbet, in a medium saucepan, heat the milk, sugar, and mint leaves, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Once warm, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour.
Pour the milk through a fine-mesh strainer into a medium bowl, squeezing the mint leaves firmly to fully extract the flavor; discard the leaves. Cover the mint-infused milk and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Just before churning, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or by hand), whisk the egg whites and salt on high speed until they hold soft peaks. Fold the whipped egg whites into the chilled milk.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Finely chop the mint leaves and fold them into the just-churned sherbet when you remove it from the ice cream machine.
To make the roasted figs, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Remove the tough stem ends from the figs, then halve each one. Toss the figs in a shallow baking dish that holds them in a single layer with the Chartreuse, honey, and thyme sprigs; turn the figs so they’re cut side down. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the figs are soft and tender, about 25 minutes.
Serving: Serve the figs warm or at room temperature with scoops of the mint sherbet.
Storage: The figs benefit from being cooked in advance—the liquid that they exude during baking becomes syrupy as they sit and is perfect for drizzling over the sherbet. So feel free to bake the figs a few hours before you plan to serve them. You can reheat them in a low oven if you want to serve them warm.
Tip: If you have concerns about using uncooked egg whites, you can make the sherbet without them. The finished texture will be a bit firmer.
toasted coconut sherbet
Makes about 1 quart (1L)
There are some folks who claim not to like coconut. I don’t know how a person couldn’t love something that’s naturally sweet and creamy tasting, the ideal companion to all tropical fruits, and a perfect mate to chocolate, too. This sherbet drizzled with Bittersweet chocolate sauce (this page) will make a coconut convert of anyone.
4 cups (1L) whole milk
¾ cup (150g) sugar
1¼ cups (90g) dried unsweetened shredded coconut, well toasted
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 large egg whites, at room temperature
Pinch of salt
In a medium saucepan, heat the milk, sugar, and toasted coconut. Once warm, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour.
Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl and press the coconut with a flexible spatula, or use your hand, to fully extract the liquid and flavor from it. Stir in the vanilla. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Just before churning, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or by hand), whisk together the egg whites and salt on high speed until they hold soft peaks. Fold the whipped egg whites into the chilled coconut-infused milk.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Serving: A scoop of this sherbet is perfect nestled in a dish with Passion fruit–tangerine sorbet (this page), Strawberry-mango sorbet (this page), or with a few Chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons (this page) alongside. And I’ve been known to blend it with an imprudent amount of dark rum and fresh pineapple for an extraordinary piña colada.
Tips: Toast the coconut on a baking sheet in a 350°F (180°C) oven for 6 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it’s well browned. Keep an eye on it while baking; once it begins to get some color, it’ll toast rather quickly.
To reuse the coconut, spread it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and place it in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until most of the moisture is evaporated. Then turn off the oven and leave it in there until cool. Store the coconut in the freezer until ready to use. Add it to your favorite granola or crisp recipe or use it in the Chocolate-dipped coconut macaroons (this page).
If you have concerns about using uncooked egg whites, you can make the sherbet without them. The finished texture will be firmer.
pink grapefruit–champagne sorbet cocktail
Makes about 1 quart (1L) sorbet; 8 servings
For this sorbet, you don’t need to use the finest French Champagne. In fact, I’ve made it successfully with other sparkling wines, such as crémant, prosecco, and cava, although the word “Champagne” does sound a little more elegant. To make it even more classy, serve it with Pecan-butterscotch tuiles (this page) or Sesame-orange almond tuiles (this page).
2 cups (500ml) freshly squeezed pink grapefruit juice
¾ cup (150g) sugar
1 cup (250ml) Champagne or another sparkling wine, plus more for serving
In a small saucepan, warm ½ cup (125ml) of the grapefruit juice and the sugar, stirring until the sugar completely dissolves.
Pour the mixture into a medium bowl and add the remaining grapefruit juice and the 1 cup of Champagne. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Serving: Scoop the sorbet into chilled serving glasses or Champagne flutes and pour Champagne over. Serve right away.
Tip: You can scoop the sorbet onto a chilled baking sheet and store the scoops in the freezer so that they are quickly and easily dropped into the glasses just before serving.
simple cherry sorbet
Makes about 3 cups (750ml)
When I was just starting out writing cookbooks, I was a guest on the Today show, and figured that was going to be my big break in show business. In my imagination, I would dazzle the media and viewers with my ability to make sorbet without an ice cream machine, catapulting my career into the culinary stratosphere. However, as soon as I pitted the first cherry, the host at the time, Katie Couric, became fixated on my spring-loaded cherry pitter and challenged me to a cherry-pitting duel. (I should have realized that those who get to the top like nothing more than a good competition.) She insisted on using a paper clip, which I knew would put her at a disadvantage. Her method was slower than mine, but being a good guest, I let her win, which probably explains why my television career never took off.
I’ll leave it up to you to decide whether to use a cherry pitter or a paper clip to pit your cherries for this sorbet. But you definitely don’t need an ice cream maker—a food processor is the winning machine for this frozen dessert.
4 cups (1½ pounds/675g) sweet cherries, pitted
½ cup (100g) sugar
1 cup (250ml) water
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
A few drops of pure almond extract
1 tablespoon kirsch (optional)
In a medium saucepan, combine the cherries, sugar, water, and lemon juice and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cherries have softened and released their juices, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the almond extract and kirsch (if using). Let cool completely.
Transfer the cherries and their syrup to a shallow container, cover, and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
Once the cherry mixture has frozen completely, remove it from the freezer, break it up, and process it in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until completely smooth.
Accompaniment: Serve Amaretti (this page) as an accompaniment. Their almond flavor is a perfect complement.
Serving: Serve right away.
Storage: Once the sorbet is processed, you can return it to the freezer until ready to serve.
wine grape sorbet
Makes about 1 quart (1L)
In the fall, wine grapes show up at the markets in France, as they do at farmers’ markets in San Francisco, New York, and other places near wine-making regions.
For this sorbet, I favor muscats, which have a rich flavor with a gentle spiciness. They’re also grown in the States, but robust Concord grapes (which, yes, do get made into wine) are my favorite for making this sorbet.
2¼ pounds (1kg) red wine grapes, or Concord grapes, stemmed (see Tip)
¼ cup (60ml) water
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons light corn syrup or agave nectar
Put the grapes in a large saucepan with the water. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the grapes are juicy and softened. (You may want to press down on the grapes with the back of a large spoon during the first few minutes of cooking to break the skins and encourage the grapes to release their juices.)
Remove the seeds and skins by passing the grapes through a food mill fitted with a fine disk or by pressing them through a fine-mesh strainer set over a large bowl. Whisk the sugar and corn syrup into the still-warm grape juice until dissolved. (If the grape juice has cooled, rewarm it gently in a saucepan over low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.) Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 8 hours or overnight.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Accompaniments: A pour of Champagne or other sparkling wine over each serving of sorbet is a nice touch. If you used Concord grapes, a spoonful of vanilla-scented whipped cream (this page) provides creamy contrast. Or serve a scoop with quartered fresh figs, Figs roasted with Chartreuse and honey (this page), poached pears, or strawberries, if they’re in season.
