The frayed atlantic edge, p.37

The Frayed Atlantic Edge, page 37

 

The Frayed Atlantic Edge
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  Kilns of Brin Novan (Orkney), 78

  Kinsale (County Cork), xi

  Kintyre, 198, 200, 205

  kittiwakes, 55

  Knap of Howar (Papay), 63, 65–6

  Knowles, Matilda, 282

  Krauss, Rosalind, 328, 331

  landowners: attitudes to the land in Orkney, 80–1; clearances in Argyll, 187, 188, 195–6; clearances in Sutherland, 127, 136; clearances on Rousay, 78, 80–1; clearances on Western Isles, 8, 95, 96, 100–1, 102; Edwardian in Western Isles, 94; enforced settlement on Havera, 45–6; exploitation on Skye, 176, 177; laird families in Orkney, 73–4, 88; profiteering in Western Isles, 100; ‘rationalised’ farming on Western Isles, 95; of Thoraí, 215–17, 218, 219, 221; and wealth from slavery, 88

  Lanyon, Andrew, 322–3, 324

  Lanyon, Peter, 316–17, 322, 325, 327–32, 339, 342

  lapwings, 60, 70

  Laurenson, Gifford, 44

  Laurie, Simon, 103

  Laws, Alistair, 203

  Laxford, Loch, 134

  leather trade, 157

  Lee, Dan, 80–1

  Leopold, Aldo, 115

  Lerwick (Shetland), xi

  lesser twayblades, 254

  Leverhulme, Lord, 101

  Lewis, 91, 100, 109–10, 157, 209; active practice of history on, 104–10, 113–15; bought by Lord Leverhulme, 101; Butt of, 97, 98; chapel ruins, 98, 99; decline of fishing industry, 101–2; geology/landscape, 107; An Lanntair arts centre, 109; resistance to wind farms, 113–14; single pub on west side of, 210; sixteenth-century clans, 135–6; and St Ronan, 98–9; as victim of modernity’s crusade, 102, 104; see also Ness (Lewis)

  Lewis and Harris Federation of Historical Societies (Caiderachas Eachdraidh an Eilein Fhada), 108

  Lews Castle (Stornoway), 110

  lighthouses, 19, 36–7, 86, 174, 198–205, 267, 284, 335

  Limerick, 268

  limestone, 33, 43, 209, 255–6

  limpets, 67, 209

  Lingay (Lingeigh), isle of, 117

  Linnean Society, 280

  Liptrot, Amy, The Outrun, 67

  literature: and Cornish coast, 316–23, 324–5, 326; of Enlli, 302–4, 306–10; Gaelic seafaring epics, 171, 172, 173–4; Irish, 250–1; living cultures of Atlantic edge, 344, 345–7; Nigerian, 250–1; O’Flaherty family of Aran, 262–4; Orkney, 67; otters in Norse and Celtic stories, 175; Robinson’s writing on Galway, 258; Scottish renaissance, 33–4; Severin’s The Brendan Voyage (1978), 212; of the Western Isles, 109; writing on Ireland’s Atlantic, 258, 260, 262–4; see also poetry

  Little, Ruth, 67

  Little Bernera (Beànaraigh Beag) (Lewis), 96, 118

  Little Skellig, 284

  Liverpool, 152, 177, 216, 229, 294

  liverworts, xi, 160

  Llinos (author’s partner), 22–3, 242–4, 246

  Lloyd, David, 218, 226; Irish Times (2008), 345

  Lloyd George, David, 341–2

  Lloyd’s of London, 204

  Llyn Peninsula, 291, 293, 295, 299–300

  lobsters, 71–2, 117, 209, 222

  Lockley, Ronald, 291, 311

  Longley, Michael, 254

  Lordship of the Isles, 172, 173

  Lucan (Roman poet), 209

  Lucca (Tuscan town), 207

  Luchubran (Lewis), 98

  Luing, island of, 199, 200

  Lundy, isle of, 315

  lynx, 10

  Lyonesse, mythical land of, 333–5

  Mac Dhomhnuill mhic Ùisdein, John, 135–6

  Macaulay, Lord, 147

  MacCaig, Norman, 12, 121, 124, 137–40, 170, 254, 310, 317

  MacDiarmid, Hugh, 33–4, 138

  MacDonald, Colin, 154–6

  MacDonald, Flora, 166

  MacDonald, Margaret and Janet, 196

  MacDonald, Norman, 133

  MacDonald clan, 171

  Macfarlane, Robert, 114

  Machair Life project, 112

  Macintosh, Farquhar, 103

  Macintyre, Duncan Ban, 128

  Mackay Brown, George, 51–2, 57, 66, 86

  Mackay clan, 128–9

  Mackenzie, John, 181

  mackerel, 20, 167

  MacKinnon, Mairi Ceit, 109

  MacLachlan, Jane, 199–200

  Maclean, Alasdair, Night Falls on Ardnamurchan (1984), 188

  MacLean, Calum, 127

  MacLean, Sorley, 165, 176, 187, 339

  Maclean clan, 187, 195

  MacLeod, Angus, 140

  Macleod, Finlay, 113, 114

  Macleod clan, 99, 100, 119, 131, 135–6

  MacPhee, Angus, 109

  MacSween, Annie (Annie Macdonald), 105–7, 339

  Malin Head (County Donegal), 205

  Mana, Oileán, 255

  Manannán Mac Lir (Irish sea god), 213, 255, 273

  maps: breach between land and sea, 240–1, 254–5; and ‘Britishness’, 342; cliff faces ignored on, 261; of coasts of Connacht, 240–1; contour lines, 239; countercultural in Connemara, 254–5, 256–8, 261; ‘deep mapping’ projects in Ireland, 242, 254–5, 256–8, 261; and dinnseanchas (‘place-lore’), 256–8, 261; engraving of, 238; focus drifts landwards, 238–9, 240; of Ireland, 211, 215, 217, 237–42, 253, 256–8, 261; of Ness, 107; of Quandale, 80; of Scotland, 215; Shetland, 19; water as barrier, not conduit, 238–9, 240

  marble, 33

  Maree, Loch, 156, 157–9

  Marland, Pippa, 257, 258, 260, 306

  marram grass, 93, 227

  Marshall, John, 192

  Marwick, Ernest, 79

  Maxwell Davies, Sir Peter, 10, 83–6, 87, 330

  Maynooth University, 251

  Mayo, County (province of Connacht), xi, 236–7, 242, 254; activism in Erris, 247, 248, 251, 252–3; Cregan family of Erris, 246; Erris (Iar Ros, ‘the Western Promontory’), 242–8, 251, 252–3, 341; protest against corporate action, 247, 251, 252–3; ‘Rossport Five’, 252; tales of loss and rescue in Erris, 244–5

  mayweed, 93–4

  McCarron, Sister Majella, 250, 251

  McDonald, Mary Lou, 251–2

  meadowsweet, 112–13

  Mediterranean culture, 207, 283

  Medusae (Dorothy Cross film), 281–2

  Meenan, Anton, 225

  Melbourne (Australia), 8

  merlins, 201

  Mesolithic period, 167–71, 175

  Mhòr nan Òran, Màiri, 165, 177, 344

  Miller, Gary, 76

  the Minch, 97, 101, 104, 131, 135–6, 145, 150, 174, 175, 176, 178, 198

  Mingulay (Miughalaigh), isle of, 116, 243

  modernism, 325, 327–31; sea as a medium of, 84–6, 87, 321, 328–30, 331

  modernity: centralising forces, 190–1, 192–3, 215–19, 297, 339; control of risk, 205; crusade against Gaelic language, 102–4, 341; Dunnett and Adam campaign, 191–7; and emptying of islands, 189, 190, 204–5; English culture’s turn to the rural, 299–302, 326–7; and Irish mariners, 207; lighthouse building, 198–205; and mapping projects, 238–42, 253, 257; myth of remoteness in west of Ireland, 211–12; and mythologising of coasts, 11; need for eradication of label, 340–1; and R. S. Thomas, 303–4; traditions of ‘progress’, 217–18, 226, 257–8, 340–6; and Trevelyan, 146–8

  Moore, Marianne, 274

  Moorhouse, Geoffrey, 286

  Moriarty, John, 259–60, 261

  Moridunum Demetarum (‘the Sea Fort of the Demetae people’), 294

  Morrison, John (brieve of Lewis), 135–6

  Morrissey, Sinead, ‘Restoration’ cycle, 236–7

  mosses, 18, 93, 160

  mounds or barrows, 78–80, 254, 256

  mountains: ‘Caledonian’ range, 33, 75; climbing in winter, 125–6, 145, 179–81; of Connemara, 255; and deceptive seas conditions, 145; and the Gàidhealtachd, 145; and history, 146–9; of Kerry coast, 277; in north-west Scotland, 2–3, 125–6, 134, 137, 145–6, 153, 155, 156, 157, 159–61; of Rum, 92, 180, 190; as sites of leisure, 7, 9, 125–6, 146–8; on Skye, 92, 176, 178, 179–82, 187; vocabulary/nomenclature on Skye, 181; in Wales, 311

  Muckle Flugga, 18–22

  Muckle Roe, 37, 38

  Muir, Tom, 79

  Mull, 92, 187–8, 195, 196–7

  Mull of Kintyre lighthouse, 198, 200

  Munster: Blasket Islands, 271, 276–9, 340; ‘deep mapping’ projects in, 242; Kerry coast, 271–2, 276–80; Skellig Michael, 283–7; south-west of, 283–7

  Murphy family (Emma/Tony/Carmel), 244–5

  Murray, Donald S., ‘The Cragsman’s Prayer’ (2008), 14

  Murray, W.H., 175–6

  music: Finlay and Wallen’s music/poetry, 86–7; of Maxwell Davies, 83, 84–6, 87, 330

  Nant Gwythern language school, 295

  Napoleon Bonaparte, 62

  Napoleonic Wars, 26, 28

  National Footpath Preservation Society, 299

  National Library of Scotland, 149

  National Trust, 299

  National University of Ireland, Galway, 265, 268

  nationalism, 138, 332

  nature writing, 38, 113–14

  Neolithic culture, 65, 79, 276–7, 334; field systems, 43, 116

  Nesbitt, Thomas, 272

  Ness (Lewis), 97, 99–100, 102, 227, 345; cultural exchanges with Pwllheli, 294–5; decline of fishing industry, 101–2; First World War losses, 101; Gaelic patronymics, 107; industry on, 101; Leabhar nan Comharraidhean, 107; local history society (Comunn Eachdraidh Nis), 104–8, 114, 115, 212

  Newborough, third Lord, 296, 297

  Newfoundland, 265

  Nicolson, Alasdair, 181

  Nigeria, xi, 249–51

  Noltland Castle (Westray), 60

  Norn (lost language), 10, 52, 54

  Norse world: boat design, 26, 27, 28, 134, 171–2; early-medieval ‘thalassocracies’, 91; Gokstad ship, 26; historic names of Shetland, 19; and Irish Celtic civilisation, 94, 118; Jarlshof on Shetland, 50; language, 19; Orkneyinga Saga, 50–3, 66; and ‘papa’ sites, 118, 119–20; and Pierowall, 60–1; Rognvald Kali Kolsson, 50–3, 60–1; sea roads of, 23, 50–1, 119–20, 172–3; ship design, 26, 27, 134, 171–2; Udal Law, 67; Underhoull on Shetland, 23

  North Sea, 11, 18, 325

  North Uist, 100

  Northern Lighthouse Board, 200, 201, 204

  Norway, 265

  Noup Head (Westray), 70, 72

  Ò Bruadair, Dáibhí, 129

  oak trees, 168

  oats, 47, 219–20

  Oceanic Histories (book series), 343

  O’ Criomhthain, Tomás, The Islandman (1929), 278–9

  O’Donnell, Pat and Martin, 245

  O’Flaherty, Liam, 262–4

  O’Flaherty, Tom, 262–4

  Ogoniland (region of Nigeria), 249–50, 251, 252

  oil fields, 247, 249–50

  Okigbo, Christopher, 250

  Ó Laoire, Lillis, 223

  Old Man of Hoy, 82

  Olympic games, 274

  Ontario, 8

  Ordnance Survey, 239, 240, 252–3, 257

  Orkney Islands, xi; Aikerness shipwrecks, 68–9; and Sweyn Asleifson, 66; bounty from shipwrecks, 68–9, 75; customs men (’gadgers’), 68–9; farming on, 66, 72, 76–7; geology/landscape, 59, 60–3, 72, 75, 77–80, 82, 166–7; and herring industry, 72–3; history, 52–3, 60–6, 67–9, 70–5, 77–80; human traces/ruins, 60, 61–2, 63–4, 68, 72, 73, 77–81; intertidal zone, 66–8; island mysteries, 62, 63–6; kelp industry, 61, 68, 73–4, 88; King Auk’s perch on Papay, 62–3; Knowe of Dale on Rousay, 79–80; lairds’ attitudes to the land, 80–1; lobster creels, 71–2; Mackay Brown’s poetry, 51–2, 57, 66, 86; and Peter Maxwell Davies, 83–6, 87; merchant lairds, 73; Old Man of Hoy, 82; poetry, 51–2, 57, 66, 86–7; runic inscriptions at Maes Howe, 86; sea crossings, 75–6; seal hunting on, 68, 69–70; St Magnus music festival, 84; story of Archie Angel, 75; tidal conditions, 19, 59–60, 75–7, 82–3; tides of Hoy, 82–3; two holy islands, 77, 79; Udal Law, 67; uranium on, 86; wildlife and flora, 60, 61–3, 65–6, 69–72, 81, 82; see also Papa Westray (Papay); Rousay, island of; Westray, island of

  O’Sullivan, Diarmaid, 287

  otters, 7, 41, 95, 174–5, 188, 255

  Out Skerries, 26

  Out Stack (‘Otsta’), 5, 18, 19

  Outer Hebrides see Western Isles

  Outlander (television show), 183

  Outram, Dorinda, 257–8

  Outward Bound, 148

  Owen, Llinos Elin (author’s partner), 22–3

  Pabbay, isle of (Barra isles), 116–18, 120

  Pabbay, isle of (Sound of Harris), 119

  Pabbay Mor (Pabaigh Mòr), isle of, 119

  packraft, 4, 145, 159

  Papa Stour, 38–40

  Papa Westray (Papay), 61–6, 69, 73–4, 117

  Peak District, 7

  peatland, 26, 67, 79, 93, 95, 117, 168, 220–1, 252, 255

  Peerie Isles, 41

  Pembrokeshire, 291, 293–4, 311

  Penwith Peninsula (Cornwall), 324

  peregrine falcons, 38

  Perranporth beach, 316

  petrels, 1, 47, 235

  Philbin, Mary, 252

  photographers of post-war age, 326

  Pictish symbol stones, 79

  Pierowall (Westray), 60–1

  Pike, Oliver, St Kilda, Its People and Birds (1908), 11

  pilchards, 323, 324

  Pilgrims Trust, 148

  Pilkington, Charles, 180, 181

  pine martens, 160

  pinewood, 157, 158, 159, 160, 168

  Pitt, William (the Younger), 239

  place names, 19, 45, 107, 134, 263–4, 274, 293–4, 296

  plankton, 235, 275, 279

  plovers, 180

  poetry: ‘advertising’ Shetland, 54, 55; Arnold’s ‘Dover Beach’, 298; The Birlinn of Clanranald, 171, 172, 173–4; Rob Donn, 123–4, 125, 127–8, 129–33, 344; of Ian Hamilton Finlay, 86–7; Finlay and Wallen’s music/poetry, 86–7; function in Gaelic culture, 127–8; Gaelic seafaring epics, 171, 172, 173–4; Gaelic verse, 12, 94, 123–4, 126, 127–8, 129–34, 136, 165, 171–4, 176–8, 344; gannet poems, 21–2; Jen Hadfield, 37–8; Seamus Heaney, 172–3, 218; Innis a’ Bhàird (Loch Maree), 159; Irish, 236–7, 254, 259–60, 273, 286; David Jones’ The Anathemata, 33, 321; long poems of mid-twentieth century, 321; lost social roles of, 127–8, 130; Norman MacCaig, 12, 121, 124, 137–40, 142, 170; Hugh MacDiarmid, 33–5; Sorley MacLean, 165, 176–8, 187; Donald S. Murray, 14; Orkney, 51–2, 57, 66, 86–7; in post-war Cornwall, 317–23, 324–5; Romantic poets, 131, 148; Shetland dialect poets, 25, 42, 54, 55; shieling songs and poems, 94–5; Simm’s otter poems, 175; Skye, 165, 175–8; Vagaland, 25–6, 40, 317; in Wales, 303–4, 306–10; of Western Isles, 93; wolves in, 136

  poitín (home-made spirit), 220–1

  Poldark (television series), 332

  Pont, Timothy, 158

  Pope, Alexander, 127

  population density, 126–7

  porphyry, 39

  porpoises, 49, 167, 236, 272, 279, 333; as food, 276–7, 278–9

  Porteous, William, 54, 55–6

  Porter family of Enlli, 305

  Portree (Skye), 181

  potatoes, 111, 210, 214, 218, 228–9, 250

  Praeger, Robert Loyd, 242–3

  Presbyterians, Scottish, 219

  primroses, 93

  ptarmigan, 160, 180

  puffins, 20, 32, 55, 55, 68, 87–8, 188, 227

  Pwllheli (Wales), 292, 293, 294–5

  Quandale, parish of (Rousay), 78–81

  quartz, 33

  quartzite, 126, 160

  Quinag (A’ Chuinneag) (‘the Milk Churn’, mountain), 2, 3

  Raasay, island of, 167

  rabbits, 63, 65–6, 71, 228

  racism, scientific, 190

  Rackwick (‘Orkney riviera’), 83–5

  railway boom (1830s), 5

  Ramna Stacks, 32

  Ramsbury, bishop of, 344

  Rathlin lighthouse, 198

  rats, 95

  razorbills, 214, 271

  Receivers of Wreck, 280

  red fescue, 93

  red ochre, 168

  redstarts, 160

  red-throated divers, 41

  religion, 128, 219, 260–1, 304; mid-nineteenth century debates, 298–9; see also Catholicism; Celtic Christianity

  Renaissance, 189, 340

  Rendall, Robert, Orkney Shore (1963), 67, 88

  Rendall, Tommy, 68, 73

  Ritchie, John, 11

  Roan Inish, skerry of, 228

  Robertson, Robin, ‘The Law of the Island’, 21–2

  Robertson, Thomas, 34

  Robinson, Mairead, 256–7, 259

  Robinson, Tim, 256–7, 274–5, 310, 339, 340, 345; Connemara’s modern mapping, 240–1, 254, 256, 257, 258, 261; on Dún Aonghasa, 262; on imperial logic of mapping, 241–2; logic of attentive being, 265–7; noise of Atlantic coastlines, 85; as philosopher of place-lore, 256, 257, 258, 260, 263–4, 267–8; rejection of shore as boundary, 261; religion and secularism, 260–1

  rock pipits, 277

  Rodel (Harris coastal chapel), 172

  Rognvald Kali Kolsson, Earl, 50–3, 60–1

  Roman Britain, 209, 294

  romanticism, 346–7; Celtic revival, 94–5; Cornish, 332; Romantic poets, 131, 148; and Shetland, 54; and Skye, 166, 182–3; of west of Scotland, 12

  Rona, island of (Ronaidh an t’haf), 99, 167, 174

  Ronas Voe (Shetland), 35

  Ross, Mary, 282

  Roundstone village (Connemara), 259

  Rousay, island of, 59, 76–81, 86–7

  Ruaidhrí, Patsaí Dan Mag (Thoraí island king), 225

  Rullard’s Roost (tidal race), 59–60, 77

  Rum, Isle of, 92, 180, 187, 190

  Rumann mac Colmáin (poet), 273

  Rusk Holm (Orkney skerry), 76–7

  Ruvaal lighthouse, 198

  rye, 220

  Sabhal Mòr Ostaig (Skye), 165

  Sakhalin Island, 248–9, 252

  salmon, 236; farming of, 247

  San Pellegrino of Ireland, 207

  sand sedges, 93

  sanderling, 254

  Sandray (Sanndraigh), isle of, 116

  sandstone, 33, 77, 82, 135

  Sandwood Bay (near Cape Wrath), 310

  Saro-Wiwa, Ken, 249–50, 251

  Saunders, Gwenno, 316

  Saurin, Amanda, 112–13

  Saxa Vord (headland), 18

  saxifrage, xi

  Scalloway (Shetland), 44

  Scandinavia, xi, 168, 206; see also Norse world

  Scariff Island (County Kerry), 287

  Schama, Simon, Landscape and Memory, 6

  Schönberg, Arnold, 84

  Scilly Isles, 333, 334, 335

  Scoraig peninsula (Scotland), 153

  Scotland: Act of Union (1707), 88, 128; ancient woodland, 157, 158, 159–60; Ardnamurchan coast, 187, 188; Argyll coastline, 198–204, 208; Balnakiel (near Cape Wrath), 123, 128–9, 172; Cape Wrath to Coigach, 123–4, 125, 132–4; clearances, 8, 127, 136, 188; conversion to strict Calvinism, 128; co-operative societies, 229, 230; deep sea lochs of west, 145; deforestation, 157–9; emptying of north-west, 152–3; first settlers, 167–70; geology/landscape in north-west, 123, 125–6, 130–3, 134, 135, 138–9, 145–9, 153–4; ‘Great Wilderness’, 153–6; ‘Highland problem’ as Enlightenment invention, 344; Highland sporting estates, 152–3, 154–5; historical sources for far north-west, 128, 130–2, 154; human traces/ruins, 123, 127, 136, 154, 155, 157–8; independence referendum (2014), 208; Industrial Revolution in, 157–9; land ownership today, 154; low treeline in mountain areas, 156–7; mountains of north-west, 2–3, 125–6, 134, 137, 145–6, 153, 155, 156, 157, 159–61; post-Culloden reign of terror, 129; steamers to Shetland, 26–7; stereotyping/mythologising of coastal communities, 11–12; urban Gaelic renaissance, 141–2; wildlife and flora of north-west, 125, 134–5, 139, 153, 156–7, 159–61; see also entries for islands and island groups; Sutherland

 

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