The Travels of Marco Polo, page 15
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Chapter XXIII
Of a fertile Plain of six Days' Journey, succeeded by a Desert of eight, to be passed in the Way to the City of Sapurgan—Of the excellent Melons produced there—And of the City of Balach.
LEAVING this castle, the road leads over a spacious plain, and then through a country diversified with hill and dale where there is herbage and pasture, as well as fruits in great abundance, by which the army of Ulaù was enabled to remain so long upon the ground. This country extends to the distance of full six days' journey. It contains many cities and fortified places,1 and the inhabitants are of the Mahometan religion. A desert then commences, extending forty or fifty miles,2 where there is no water; and it is necessary that the traveller should make provision of this article at his outset. As the cattle find no drink until this desert is passed, the greatest expedition is necessary, that they may reach a watering place. At the end of the sixth day's journey,3 he arrives at a town named Sapurgan,4 which is plentifully supplied with every kind of provision, and is particularly celebrated for producing the best melons in the world. These are preserved in the following manner. They are cut spirally, in thin slices, as the pumpkin with us, and after they have been dried in the sun, are sent, in large quantities, for sale, to the neighbouring countries; where they are eagerly sought for, being sweet as honey.5 Game is also in plenty there, both of beasts and birds.
Leaving this place, we shall now speak of another named Balach; a large and magnificent city.6 It was formerly still more considerable, but has sustained much injury from the Tartars, who in their frequent attacks have partly demolished its buildings. It contained many palaces constructed of marble, and spacious squares, still visible, although in a ruinous state.7 It was in this city, according to the report of the inhabitants, that Alexander took to wife the daughter of king Darius.8 The Mahometan religion prevails here also.9 The dominion of the lord of the Eastern Tartars extends to this place; and to it the limits of the Persian empire extend, in a north-eastern direction.10 Upon leaving Balach and holding the same course for two days, you traverse a country that is destitute of every sign of habitation the people having all fled to strong places in the mountains, in order to secure themselves against the predatory attacks of lawless marauders, by whom these districts are overrun. Here are extensive waters, and game of various kinds. Lions are also found in these parts,11 very large and numerous. Provisions, however, are scarce in the hilly tract passed during these two days, and the traveller must carry with him food sufficient both for himself and his cattle.
1From Damaghân his course was nearly east, or in the direction of Balkh, and seems to have lain through Jan-Jerm and Nishapûr towards Meru-ar-rud; but the number of days' journeys is evidently too small, unless we can suppose him to have travelled at double the rate of the ordinary caravans, or full forty miles per day; which is less probable than that an omission of some stages has been made in the narrative.
2The country of Khorasan, through which the route, whether from Alamut or from Damaghân to the place next mentioned must have lain, is said to be in general level, intersected with sandy deserts and irregular ridges of lofty mountains.
3 It is quite necessary to the sense that this should mean six days' journey from the eastern side of the desert just mentioned.
4 Of the identity of this place, which at first might seem to be intended for Nishapur, there can be no doubt. "Cheburgan, ville de Corassane, près du Gihon et de Bale," says Pétis de la Croix, the translator of Sherefeddin, "a 100 degrés de long. et 36° 45' de latitude." In the tables of Nassir-eddin, from which the above situation is taken, it is named Ashburkan; in D'Anville's map, Ashburgan; in Strathlenberg's, Chaburga; in Macdonald Kinneir's, Subbergan; and in Elphinstone's, Shibbergaun. By the last writer it is spoken of as a dependency of the government of Balkh.
5 The province of Khorasan is celebrated by all the eastern writers for the excellence of its fruits, and the importance here given to its melons is fully supported by the authority of Chardin. (Tom. ii. p. 19, 4to.) On the subject of the "melon du Khorasan," see also Relation de l'Egypte, notes, p. 126.
6 Balach or Balkh, the "Bactra regia" of Ptolemy, which gave name to the province of Bactriana, of which it was the capital, is situated towards the heads of the Oxus, in the north-eastern extremity of Khorasan. It is one of the four royal cities of that province, and has been the seat of government perhaps more frequently even than Nishapur, Herat, or Meru-shahjan.
7 Jengiz-khan, who took this city by assault in 1221, from the Khorazmians caused all the inhabitants to be massacred (as we are told by his historian, Abu'lghazi) and the walls to be razed to their foundation. In 1369 it was taken from the descendants of that conqueror by Tamerlane, whose family possessed it until they were obliged to give place to the Uzbek Tartars, between whom and the Persians it was subsequently the subject of perpetual contention. "All the Asiatics," Elphinstone observes, "are impressed with an idea of its: being the oldest city in the world…This ancient metropolis is now reduced to insignificance. Its ruins still cover a great extent, and are surrounded with a wall, but only one corner is inhabited." (P. 464.) The houses are described by Macdonald Kinneir as being of brick, and the palace of the khan, an extensive building, nearly all of marble, brought from quarries in the neighbouring mountains.
8 The Persian marriages of Alexander with Barsine or Statira, the daughter of Darius, and with Parisatis, the daughter of Ochus, are generally understood to have taken place at Susa.
9 Abu'lghazi informs us that at the time of the destruction of Balkh by Jengiz-khan, it contained no fewer than 12,000 mosques; which, although an exaggeration, shows at least the prevalence of Islamism in that city.
10 Khorasan being so frequently subject to Persian dominion, and particularly under the descendants of Hulagu, who possessed it at the time our author travelled there, it was natural for him to consider it as an integral part of the Persian empire. Balkh is correctly stated as lying on the north-eastern frontier. The Latin says," usque ad istam terram durat dominium domini de Levante."
11 Chardin enumerates lions amongst the wild animals of Persia, and especially in the frontier provinces. "Partout où il y a des bois," he says, "comme en Hircanie et en Curdistan, il y a beaucoup de bêtes sauvages, des lions, des ours, des tigres, des leopards, des porc-epy, et des sangliers."—Tom ii. p. 29, 4to.
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Chapter XXIV
Of the Castle named Thaikan—Of the Manners of the Inhabitants—And of Salt-Hills.
AT the end of these two days' journey you reach a castle named Thaikan, where a great market for corn is held, it being situated in a fine and fruitful country. The hills that lie to the south of it are large and lofty.1 They all consist of white salt, extremely hard, with which the people, to the distance of thirty days' journey round, come to provide themselves, for it is esteemed the purest that is found in the world; but it is at the same time so hard that it cannot be detached otherwise than with iron instruments.2 The quantity is so great that all the countries of the earth might be supplied from thence. Other hills produce almonds and pistachio nuts,3 in which articles the natives carry on a considerable trade. Leaving Thaikan and travelling three days, still in a north-east direction, you pass through a well inhabited country, very beautiful, and abounding in fruit, corn, and vines. The people are Mahometans, and are blood-thirsty and treacherous. They are given also to debauchery, and to excess in drink, to which the excellence of their sweet wine encourages them.4 On their heads they wear nothing but a cord, about ten spans in length, with which they bind them round. They are keen sportsmen, and take many wild animals, wearing no other clothing than the skins of the beasts they kill, of which materials their shoes also are made. They are all taught to prepare the skins.
1 This account of Thaikan or Taikân (written Caycam in the manuscripts, and Taitham in the Italian epitomes), which is situated amongst the sources of the Oxus, will be found remarkably correct. "Of Tokharestan," says Ibn Haukal, "the largest city (town) is Taikân, situated on a plain in the vicinity of mountains. It is watered by a considerable river, and has many orchards and gardens." (P. 224.) "From Taikân to Badakshan is seven days' journey." (P. 230.) See also Abulfeda. These authors clearly distinguish it from a place named Talkan, lying south-west of Balkh, near Meru-er-rûd, and situated on a steep rock; but Edrisi gives to the former the name of Talkan, and has been followed by modern geographers, and particularly by D'Anville, in whose map both places are written with the same letters. "Their course," says Lieut. Macartney, speaking of the streams of the Oxus, near whose junction Talikan (or Taikân) stands, "is through a mountainous country, but containing many excessively rich and fertile valleys, producing all kinds of fruit in the greatest abundance."—Elphinstone's Account of Caubul, Appendix, p. 650.
2 This kind of hard fossil salt is found in several parts, and is thus described by Chardin: "Dans la Médie et à Ispahan le sel se tire des mines, et on le transport par gros quartiers, come la pierre de taille. Il est si dure en des endroits, comme dans la Caramanic déserte (Kirmân) qu'on en employee les pierres dans la construction des maisons des pauvres gens." (Tom. ii. p. 23.) "The road beyond," says Elphinstone, speaking of a place in the country of the Afghâns, "was cut out of solid salt, at the foot of cliffs of that mineral, in some places more than one hundred feet high above the river. The salt is hard, clear, and almost pure."—Account of Caubul, p. 37.
3 Both almonds and pistachio nuts are enumerated by Chardin amongst the productions of the northern and eastern parts of Persia. "Il croît des pistaches à Casbin et aux environs…Ils ont de plus les amandes, les noisettes, &c. Le plus grand transport de fruits se fait de Yesde."—Tom. ii. p. 21.
4 This country has since been overrun by a different race of people. "The Uzbeks," says Elphinstone, "first crossed the Jaxartes about the beginning of the sixteenth century, and pouring on the possessions of the descendants of Tamerlane," who were themselves invaders, "soon drove them from Bokhaura, Khoarizm, and Ferghauna, and spread terror and dismay to the remotest parts of their extended empire. They now possess besides Bulkh (Balkh), the kingdoms of Khoarizm (or Orgunge), Bokhaura and Ferghauna, and perhaps some other little countries on this side of Beloot Taugh. I am told that they are to be found beyond Beloot Taugh, and as far east as Khoten at least; but of this I cannot speak with confidence. They belong to that great division of the human race which is known in Asia by the name of Toork, and which, with the Moghuls and Manshoors, compose what we call the Tartar nation. Each of these divisions has its separate language, and that of the Toorks is widely diffused throughout the west of Asia."—Account of Caubul, p. 465.
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Chapter XXV
Of the Town of Scassem, and of the Porcupines found there.
DURING a journey of three days there are cities and many castles, and at the end of that distance you reach a town named Scassem,1 governed by a chief whose title is equivalent to that of our barons or counts; and amongst the mountains he possesses other towns and strong places Through the midst of this town runs a river of tolerable size. Here are found porcupines, which roll themselves up when the hunters set their dogs at them, and with great fury shoot out the quills or spines with which their skins are furnished, wounding both men and dogs. The people of this country have their peculiar language. The herdsmen who attend the cattle have their habitations amongst the hills, in caverns they form for themselves; nor is this a difficult operation, the hills consisting, not of stone, but only of clay. Upon departing from this place you travel for three days without seeing any kind of building, or meeting with any of the necessaries required by a traveller, excepting water; but for the horses there is sufficient pasture. You are therefore obliged to carry with you every article for which there may be occasion on the road. At the end of the third day you arrive at the province of Balashan.2
1 This name, which in the Latin texts as well as in that of Ramusio is Scassem, and in the Italian epitomes Echasem, is evidently the Keshem of D'Anville's map, and the Kishm-abad of Elphinstone's, situated near the Ghori river which falls into the Oxus, and somewhat to the eastward of the meridian of Kabul or Caubul. Ibn Haukal, who describes it immediately after speaking of Taikân, and before he entersupon Badakhshan, names it Khesh, and says it is "the largest town in this mountainous country." J. R. Forster (Voyages in the North, p. 125) supposes Scassem to be Al-shash, on the river Sirr or Jaxartes, but against all probability, considering its vast distance from the last mentioned place; whilst Keshem or Kishm is not only in the vicinity, but in the direct route to that which is next described.
2This place is unquestionably Badakhshân, as the name is correctly written by Ibn Haukal and other geographers, although often pronounced Balakhshân. By D'Herbelot its situation is thus described: "Badakschian et Balakhschian, pays qui fait une parties de la province de Thokharestan, et qui s'étend vers la tête du fleuve Gihon ou Oxus, par lequel il est borné du côté du levant et du septentrion." "Budukhshaun," says Elphinstone, in his Account of Caubul, "though an extensive country, seems to be but one great valley running up from the province of Bulkh (Balkh) to Beloot Taugh, between the islands connected with the Pamere and the range of Hindoo Koosh."—P. 628.
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Chapter XXVI
Of the Province of Balashan—Of the Precious Stones found there and which become the Property of the King—Of the Horses and the Falcons of the Country—Of the salubrious Air of the Mountains—And of the Dress with which the Women adorn their Persons.
IN the province of Balashan, the people are Mahometans, and have their peculiar language. It is an extensive kingdom, being in length full twelve days' journey, and is governed by princes in hereditary succession, who are all descended from Alexander, by the daughter of Darius, king of the Persians. All these have borne the title in the Saracenic tongue of Zulkarnen, being equivalent to Alexander.1 In this country are found the precious stones called balass rubies, of fine quality and great value, so called from the name of the province.2 They are imbedded in the high mountains, but are searched for only in one, named Sikinan.3 In this the king causes mines to be worked, in the same manner as for gold or silver; and through this channel alone they are obtained; no person daring, under pain of death, to make an excavation for the purpose, unless as a special favour he obtains his majesty's licence. Occasionally the king gives them as presents to strangers who pass through his dominions, as they are not procurable by purchase from others, and cannot be exported without his permission. His object in these restrictions is, that the rubies of his country, with which he thinks his credit connected, should preserve their estimation and maintain their high price; for if they could be dug for indiscriminately, and every one could purchase and carry them out of the kingdom, so great is their abundance, that they would soon be of little value. Some he sends as complimentary gifts to other kings and princes; some he delivers as tribute (to his superior lord); and some also he exchanges for gold and silver. These he allows to be exported. There are mountains likewise in which are found veins of lapis lazuli, the stone which yields the azure colour (ultramarine),4 here the finest in the world. The mines of silver, copper, and lead, are likewise very productive. It is a cold country. The horses bred here are of a superior quality, and have great speed. Their hoofs are so hard that they do not require shoeing.5 The natives are in the practice of galloping them on declivities where other cattle could not or would not venture to run. They asserted that not long since there were still found in this province horses of the breed of Alexander's celebrated Bucephalus, which were all foaled with a particular mark in the forehead. The whole of the breed was in the possession of one of the king's uncles, who, upon his refusal to yield them to his nephew, was put to death; whereupon his widow, exasperated at the murder, caused them all to be destroyed; and thus the race was lost to the world. In the mountains there are falcons of the species called saker (falco sacer), which are excellent birds, and of strong flight; as well as of that called laner, (falco lanarius). There are also goshawks of a perfect kind (falco astur, or palumbarius), and sparrow-hawks (falco nisus). The people of the country are expert at the chase both of beasts and birds. Good wheat is grown there, and a species of barley without the husk.6 There is no oil of olives, but they express it from certain nuts, and from the grain called sesame,7 which resembles the seed of flax, excepting that it is light-coloured; and the oil this yields is better, and has more flavour than any other. It is used by the Tartars and other inhabitants of these parts.
In this kingdom there are many narrow defiles, and strong situations, which diminish the apprehension of any foreign power entering it with a hostile intention. The men are good archers and excellent sportsmen; generally clothing themselves with the skins of wild animals; other materials for the purpose being scarce. The mountains afford pasture for an innumerable quantity of sheep, which ramble about in flocks of four, five, and six hundred, all wild; and although many are taken and killed, there does not appear to be any diminution.8 These mountains are exceedingly lofty, insomuch that it employs a man from morning till night to ascend to the top of them. Between them there are wide plains clothed with grass and with trees, and large streams of the purest water precipitating themselves through the fissures of the rocks. In these streams are trout and many other delicate sorts of fish. On the summits of the mountains the air is so pure and so salubrious, that when those who dwell in the towns, and in the plains and valleys below, find themselves attacked with fevers or other inflammatory complaints, they immediately remove thither, and remaining for three or four days in that situation, recover their health. Marco Polo affirms that he had experience in his own person of its excellent effects; for having been confined by sickness, in this country, for nearly a year,9 he was advised to change the air by ascending the hills; when he presently became convalescent. A peculiar fashion of dress prevails amongst the women of the superior class, who wear below their waists, in the manner of drawers, a kind of garment, in the making of which they employ, according to their means, an hundred, eighty, or sixty ells of fine cotton cloth; which they also gather or plait, in order to increase the apparent size of their hips; those being accounted the most handsome who are the most bulky in that part.10
