Bo Friberg, page 97
1 pound 5 ounces (595 g) Short Dough
1 ⁄2 recipe or 13 ounces (370 g) Florentina
(page 67)
Batter (page 306)
41⁄2 ounces (130 g) smooth strawberry jam
Dark coating chocolate, melted
4 pounds 10 ounces (2 kg 105 g) Frangipane
Filling (page 842)
1. Line the bottom of a half-sheet pan, 16 x 12 inches (40 x 30 cm) with baking paper. Roll out the short dough to 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) thick and place in the pan. Trim the edges so only the bottom of the pan is covered with dough. Cover the dough scraps and reserve for another use.
Spread the jam in a thin layer over the dough. Spread the frangipane filling evenly on top.
2. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until baked through, about 45 minutes (keep in mind that the pastry will be baked an additional 5 minutes with the topping). Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate.
3. When the frangipane sheet is cold (preferably the day after baking), cut off the skin and even the top. To do this, leave the frangipane sheet in the pan and cut with a serrated knife held parallel to the top of the cake, using the edge of the pan as a guide for your knife.
4. Spread the Florentina batter over the frangipane, using a spatula dipped into hot water to make it slide more easily. Place the frangipane sheet, still in its original pan, onto a second pan the same size (double-panning).
5. Bake at 425°F (219°C) until the Florentina topping begins to bubble and turn golden brown, about 5 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
6. Cut the sheet loose from the sides of the pan; place a cake cardboard on top, invert, and unmold onto the cardboard. Refrigerate (upside down) until cool.
7. While the sheet is still upside down, trim both long sides, then cut lengthwise into 4 equal 598 The Professional Pastry Chef: Fundamentals
F I G U R E 1 2 - 2 5 Inserting a dipping fork
F I G U R E 1 2 - 2 6 Letting the excess choco-
F I G U R E 1 2 - 2 7 Scraping the pastry
partway into the side of a Tosca pastry
late drip back into the bowl after dipping
against the side of the bowl to remove
the bottom and sides of the pastry into
excess chocolate from the bottom
the melted chocolate
F I G U R E 1 2 - 2 8 Blotting the pastry on
F I G U R E 1 2 - 2 9 Removing the dipping fork after placing
a piece of baking paper
the dipped pastry on a paper-lined sheet pan, touching the
Florentina topping rather than the chocolate coating if
needed to steady the pastry
strips, approximately 23⁄4 inches (7 cm) wide. Cut each strip across into 12 pieces, 13⁄4 inches (3.1
cm) wide. Hold the knife at a 90-degree angle so that the edges are straight. Turn the cut pieces over so that the Florentina faces up.
8. Dip the bottom and sides, but not the top, of each pastry into dark coating chocolate, using a dipping fork inserted partway into the pastry. Carefully move the pastry up and down over the bowl a few times to allow as much excess chocolate as possible to fall back into the bowl. Drag the bottom against the side of the bowl. Blot the pastry on a piece of baking paper to remove more chocolate. Place the slices in straight rows on sheet pans lined with baking paper (Figures 12-25 to 12-29). Store the finished pastries in a cool place; they will keep for up to 1 week.
N O T E : If you must refrigerate Tosca, they should be boxed and well wrapped to prevent the Florentina topping from getting wet and sticky.
Individual Pastries 599
Trier Squares yield:48 pastries,2 inches (5 cm) square
These pastries are named for the ancient town of Trier, located on the banks of the Mosel River in southwestern Germany. I based my version on a recipe I found in a German cookbook from the turn of the century. Trier Squares are another one of my personal favorites; I can’t keep myself from eating the scraps when the baked sheets are trimmed and cut in class.
These pastries are very easy to make, they taste great, and they keep quite well after baking. Trier Squares can also be stored in the refrigerator (up to one week) or in the freezer (for several weeks), finished through Step 4. They make a good choice for beginning students because their preparation offers an opportunity to practice rolling out short dough, lining pans, cutting thin dough strips, and arranging them in a precise pattern. Because these pastries are also pretty much foolproof, they also provide a good morale boost.
2 pounds 3 ounces (1 kg) Short Dough
Trier Filling (recipe follows)
(page 67)
Egg wash
41/2 ounces (130 g) smooth apricot jam
1. Line the bottom of a half-sheet pan, 16 x 12 inches (40 x 30 cm), with baking paper. Roll a portion of the short dough out to 1⁄8 inch (3 mm) thick, roll it up on a dowel, and unroll over the pan. Trim the edges to cover just the bottom of the pan and place the pan in the refrigerator. Add the scraps to the remaining short dough and roll to the same thickness and about 16
inches (40 cm) in length. Place on a sheet of cardboard or on an inverted sheet pan and place in the refrigerator until firm as well.
2. Spread the jam in a thin layer over the short dough in the pan. Top with the Trier filling and use a palette knife to spread it out evenly.
3. Cut the reserved dough lengthwise into strips, 1⁄4 inch (6-mm) wide, using a fluted or plain pastry wheel.
4. Brush the top of the Trier filling with egg
wash. Arrange the dough strips diagonally, 1⁄4 inch (6
mm) apart, over the filling. Then arrange strips diag-
onally in the other direction so they form a diamond
pattern (Figure 12-30). Press the strips lightly with
your hand as you place them to make sure they
stick. Trim the edges around the pan and cover the
dough trimmings to save for another use. Brush the
strips with egg wash.
5. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until golden brown
and baked through, about 40 minutes. Let the pastry
F I G U R E 1 2 - 3 0 Arranging strips of short dough
cool completely, preferably overnight. Cut around
diagonally to form a diamond lattice pattern
the inside edge of the pan and invert the sheet.
on the top of Trier Squares
Remove the pan and the baking paper. Turn right-
side up. Trim the long edges. Measure and cut into 6 equal strips the long way and cut each strip into 8 equal pieces. Use a serrated knife with a sawing action to minimize breaking the short dough.
600 The Professional Pastry Chef: Fundamentals
TRIER FILLING yield:2 pounds 13 ounces (1 kg 280 g)
15 ounces (430 g) sliced almonds
6 ounces (170 g) golden raisins
14 ounces (400 g) granulated sugar
1 ⁄4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1 ⁄2 cup (120 ml) whole milk
Grated zest of 1 lemon
5 ounces (140 g) Beurre Noisette (see page 7)
1 tablespoon (5 g) ground cinnamon
1. Combine the almonds, sugar, and milk. Add the beurre noisette.
2. Mix in the raisins, lemon juice, lemon zest, and cinnamon.
Individual Pastries 601
I N T H I S C H A P T E R
Almond Crisp Towers with Pistachio-Walnut 604
Mint-Scented Chocolate Silk Cake
657
Cream
Pavlova
660
Apple–Puff Pastry Pyramids with Almond Ice 607
Pears Belle Hélène
662
Cream and Caramel Sauce
Pineapple Fritters with Gingered Pineapple
663
Apple Strudel, Austrian Style
608
Frozen Yogurt
Apple Strudel, German Style
610
Pineapple Drink
665
Apple Sacks
612
Plum Fritters
666
Berries with Baked Chocolate Mousse and
615
FRITTERS WITH FRESH BLACKBERRY SAUCE
667
Mint Syrup
Puff Pastry with Fruit and Champagne
668
Blackberry Meringue Tartlets
619
Sabayon
Budapest Swirls
620
Queen’s Apple
669
Caramelized Upside-Down Apple and
621
Red Bananas Foster with Marshmallow and
672
Almond Cakes
Spice Cake
Cheesecake Soufflé with Summer
623
CLASSIC BANANAS FOSTER
674
Strawberries
Rhubarb-Meringue Napoleons
674
Chestnut-Rum Cream Cakes
625
Rum Babas
676
Chèvre Coeur à la Crème with Pistachio
627
Savarin
678
Crust
Small Pear Tartlets with Caramel Sauce
679
Chianti-Poached Figs with Lavender
629
Small Swedish Pancakes (Pla¨ttar)
683
Mascarpone
Soufflé Pancakes with Gooseberry Ice
684
Chilled Red Fruit Soup with Lemon Thyme
631
Cream
and Mascarpone Sherbet
Sour Apple and Cheese Turnovers
686
Chocolate Marquise
634
Strawberry Shortcake
687
Chocolate Refrigerator Soufflés
636
Swedish Pancakes Filled with Apples
689
Cookie-Crusted Profiteroles with Nougat
637
Sauce
Tiramisu with Fresh Fruit
692
Courting Swans
TRADITIONAL TIRAMISU PRESENTATION
694
639
Crepe Soufflé
Trio of Cannolis
695
640
Crisp Hazelnut Wafers with Raspberries and
Whipped Cream Waffles with Apple Jam and 696
641
Cream
Calvados Cream
WHIPPED CREAM WAFFLES WITH STRAWBERRY-LIME
698
Date-Stuffed Poached Pears in Phyllo Crowns 644
SAUCE
with Brandied Mousseline Sauce
White Chocolate–Citrus Roulade
699
Fig Tart with Citrus Cream and Port Wine
646
F R O Z E N P L A T E D D E S S E R T S
Reduction
Frozen Apple Towers with Warm Sauteéd
701
Florentina Cones with Seasonal Fruit
648
Apples and Raisins
Fresh Peaches in Puff Pastry
650
Frozen Mint Mousse with a Frosty Chocolate 703
Fruit and Coconut Tapioca Pudding Maui
651
Shell
Italian Cranberry Cheesecake Strudel with
655
Individual Baked Alaska Beehives
708
Candied Chestnuts and Caramel Sauce
Plated Desserts
For many hundreds of years, sweet and elegant desserts have
CHAPTER
been a favorite way to reward ourselves and those who are
special to us.They are a small luxury that, even though not an
essential part of the everyday diet, has played an important
T H I R T E E N
role in cultural history. From the first sweets, which were
probably nothing more than a plate of fruit topped with
honey, cooking and baking have developed into a creative and
we eat with our
sophisticated art.This is especially evident in dessert presenta-
tions, which are often a meaningful part of celebrations and
eyes as well as
special occasions.
Some of the more elaborate recipes in this chapter
require time and patience, but they yield breathtaking results.
our mouths
However, any of these desserts, even the quickest and most
humble, should be presented in its own elegant way, served on
an attractive plate, and accompanied by an appropriate sauce
and/or garnish. Remember:We eat with our eyes as well as
our mouths. Even the simple and homey-looking Rum Baba
can be dressed up with a little effort, although this type of
dessert is not meant to compete with the artistry and complexity of the more architectural dessert presentations.
The size of the serving plate alone can make a big difference in a dessert’s appearance. The dessert should not touch the rim of the plate, so, for most items, it is essential to use a plate 10
to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm) in diameter to display the pastry, sauce, and garnish without crowding. All of the presentation instructions in this chapter are based on using plates of this size, with a minimum base of 7 inches (17.5 cm) in diameter. So as not to detract from the dessert, it is best to use plates with little or no pattern on the surface and with just a simple design on the rim. This is especially important if decorating with two or more sauces, or the result can look like a bad example of modern art. Keep in mind that the serving plate, sauce, and garnish are there to enhance the dessert, not to compete with it. Strive for a well-balanced presentation.
With small adjustments––often just leaving off the sauce and garnish––many of the selec-
tions in this chapter can be adapted for the showcase in a pastry shop or for a dessert buffet, instead of plate service. Tiramisu, Cookie-Crusted Profiteroles, German-Style Apple Strudel, Small Pear Tartlets, and White Chocolate Citrus Roulade are examples. Conversely, some of the pastries found in the Individual Pastries chapter can easily be turned into elegant plated desserts by serving them with an appropriate sauce and decoration.
In either case, whether you serve an elegant petits fours tray or a dessert that is artistically embellished with tuile paste, sugar, or chocolate decorations, when your customers are finished eating, they should agree that it was worth every calorie.
Almond Crisp Towers with Pistachio-Walnut Cream yield:16 servings (Photo 67)
This elegant and delicious dessert was born over a cup of coffee with a colleague who needed a nutty dessert for a special function. The original name on the menu was Trio of Nuts, but I have since decided on a more conservative title. I’m using slightly modified versions of the Crisp Hazelnut Wafers batter and template.
The fragile wafers literally fall apart in your mouth and also, unfortunately, in your hands if you are not careful during the assembly. The recipe will give you about ten extra wafers, and you will probably need some of them. If any are left over, they can be stored in an airtight container for up to one week. If you must start assembly ahead of time, heed the warning in Step 5: The wafers will absorb moisture very quickly and become soggy. Part of the appeal of this dessert comes from the contrast in textures between the crisp wafers and the rich cream filling.
You can easily simplify and reduce the calories in this dessert by eliminating both types of nuts, the heavy cream, and the sugar from the ingredients. Instead, substitute Italian Cream (page 844) flavored with Amaretto di Saronno, Frangelico, or another nut-flavored liqueur.
Butter and Flour Mixture (page 7)
4 cups (960 ml) heavy cream
Toasted Almond Crisp Batter (recipe follows)
2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar
4 ounces (115 g) pistachios
1 ⁄4 recipe Raspberry Sauce (page 830)
3 ounces (85 g) walnuts
1 recipe Orange Sauce (page 828)
Powdered sugar
Dark coating chocolate, melted
604 The Professional Pastry Chef: Fundamentals
1. Make the template shown in Figure 13-1. The template as shown is the correct size required for this recipe. Trace the drawing, then cut the template out of 1⁄16-inch (2-mm) cardboard (cake boxes work fine for this). Make a second template, using Figure 13-2 as a guide, and reserve this template for the presentation. If you do not have Silpats, brush the butter and flour mixture on the back of clean, even sheet pans.
2. Spread the Almond Crisp batter onto Silpats or the prepared sheet pans, spreading it flat and even within the template (see Figures 10-29 and 10-30, page 482). You will need 4 wafers per serving, but make a few extra, as they break easily.
3. Bake at 400°F (205°C) for approximately 5 minutes or until slightly brown in places.
Allow the wafers to cool before removing them from the pans.
4. Blanch the pistachios, using a pinch of salt in the blanching water to bring out the green color. Remove the skin and set the nuts aside to dry. (You can speed up the drying process by placing the nuts in a very low oven. Do not toast them, however.) Reserve 16 good-looking pistachios or pistachio halves to use for garnish. Crush the remainder finely and set aside. Finely chop the walnuts.
5. Select the 16 best-looking wafers to use as the tops of the desserts. One at a time, set the presentation template on top of these wafers and sift powdered sugar over the template. Remove the template very carefully so you do not disturb the powdered sugar. Place a small amount of melted chocolate in a piping bag. Pipe a small dot of chocolate in the center of each decorated wafer and place 1 reserved pistachio on top. Do not decorate more tops than you expect to use the same day. Set the tops aside. Pipe lines of melted chocolate in a spoke pattern over the entire base of as many dessert plates as you made tops.
6. Whip the heavy cream with the granulated sugar to soft peaks. Divide the cream into 2
portions, one almost twice the size of the other. Flavor the smaller portion with the chopped walnuts and place in a pastry bag with a No. 6 (12-mm) plain tip. Flavor the larger portion with the crushed pistachios and place in a second pastry bag with a No. 6 (12-mm) plain tip.
