Mull and the Clearances, page 7
The Argyll Estates
Finally, I am describing what happened in the Ross of Mull and Iona. The fertile soil here makes the promontory the main crofting district in Mull. Geologically, it differs from the basaltic soils of the rest of Mull, being an area of red or pink granite which breaks down into a soil of a different composition. The granite from the Tormore quarry just north of Fionnphort (Iona Ferry) was quarried until the early twentieth century and exported by sea from a pier in the ‘Bullhole’ below, connected by a tramway, for ornamental and building projects at home and overseas. The structure of Iona is different again, being formed by some of the oldest rock in the world that again breaks down into good soil. It is strange how long ago the people seemed to have an instinctive awareness of the permanence of Iona, that induced kings and dignitaries to seek burial there, apart from the sanctity of the island. An old Gaelic saying describes how Iona will still be standing when ‘Mull and Islay are below the sea’.
This was part of the lands of the Macleans of Duart taken over by the Campbells in 1692. By the end of the nineteenth century the Dukes of Argyll had sold portions of Mull until their only possession was here in the Ross of Mull.
Unlike so many of the new landlords, the Dukes of Argyll had at first as a general theory of amalgamating scattered uneconomic holdings into large farm units, which would both improve the living standards of the people and yield higher rents. This could only be done by getting rid of a large surplus population which was achieved by methods common to the Clearances areas of the Highlands and Islands.
As early as 1774 the 5th Duke of Argyll introduced the benefits of smallpox vaccinations. Early in the nineteenth century Argyll Estates tried to interest the crofters in a variety of jobs such as flax growing, weaving and fishing. In fact, loans were granted for the purchase of boats and gear, and even experienced advisors were brought in; but this was by tradition a pastoral people and it was difficult to change their way of life, so the good intentions of the Dukes met with little success.
Some relief was even provided for large families hardhit by storm damage. There was a short-lived revival of the kelp industry which was of mutual benefit. This fertile land had a surplus of barley and potatoes, rather like Ulva before it was cleared, the people were self-sufficient, the population increasing. After 1800 the old run-rig system of cultivation was being steadily replaced by individual crofting, but with no security of tenure beyond a year. In fact, in their earlier consideration for the people, the Dukes remind me strongly of the wellknown words from the poem by Lewis Carroll:
‘I weep for you’ the Walrus said:
‘I deeply sympathize.’
With sobs and tears he sorted out
Those of the largest size . . .
There was this large majority of cottars, whom the unpopular factor John Campbell was to describe as ‘locusts on the land’. While it is thought that the Dukes were not always aware of the harsh acts of their factors, they must accept the responsibility.
Land was being steadily taken over for sheep. In fact, as early as 1805 the 5th Duke boasted that his Mull and Morvern lands had more sheep to the acre than perhaps anywhere in all Britain! However, it was not until between 1840 and 1860 that some tolerance gave way to blatant greed when the 8th Duke took over, and his actions began to conform to the general pattern. Evictions became a standard policy. Rent in arrears, non-renewing of tenancies, any excuse served; yet rents were increased by up to 100%, even although the finances of the Argyll Estates showed a steady annual surplus. On only two years was there a deficit, in 1847 and 1849, but this was when the Duke was subsidising emigration, with an offer of £10 per family, thus releasing even more land by reducing the population. The lifestyle of the Dukes of Argyll both socially and politically were understandably a financial burden, but the actions in sustaining this by such methods amounted to nothing but selfish greed.
There was widespread destitution, and many people reduced to pauperism. The hard-pressed Parish Councils, assisted by the Relief Commission, brought in meal to avert starvation. In this action the Duke refused to cooperate, although he did arrange for the transport of a shipload of supplies from the Clyde. At first the landowners were unwisely appointed to distribute the supplies, but many of them demanded in payment work within their own estates instead for the benefit of the community. The Duke’s factor took full advantage of this. Rents still went up and up, beyond the abilities of most of the landholders to pay, thus forcing them to give up their homes.
Between 1847 and 1860, with assisted emigration, nearly 1,100 people left the Parish. Over the same period the total population of Mull dropped by 28%, although that of Tobermory had risen as we explained earlier. All the foregoing is based on evidence given before the Commission.
In Iona, exactly the same conditions applied, and it would be wearisome to go into further details, except that statistics speak for themselves. Between 1780 and 1835 the population increased from 200 to 500. By 1881 only 250 remained.
A new age began for the few remaining hard-pressed tenants when the Napier Commission took over.
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*In fact Tobermory is not, and never was, an estate, though it formed part of Aros estate. It obtained burgh status in the nineteenth century.
†The discovery and excavation of the eighth-century chapel at Baliscate took place after Peter had died, but he would have been delighted.
*After this was written, a commemorative book was placed in Mull Museum for those who served in Tobermory to sign. More recently children and grandchildren of those who served became signatories, and the book has been kept in the Museum collection.
*The school is no longer a gaunt ruin and has been renovated as a private house. A wall of graffiti from the school has been preserved, with the initials of some pupils and drawings of ships in full sail. Photographs of this can be seen in Mull Museum.
*This revitalisation continued with the community buyout of Ulva in 2018, though Jamie Howard as landowner did much before that.
References
Proceedings of the Royal Commission (Highlands and Islands), 1892.
Statistical Accounts, 1792, 1795, 1845.
Alexander Mackenzie, History of the Highland Clearances, Alex Maclaren & Sons, Glasgow, 1883.
Eric Richards, History of the Clearances, Volume 2, Croom Helm, 1985.
T. M. Devine, The Great Highland Famine, John Donald, Edinburgh, 1981.
Austin Bourke, The Visitation of God? The Potato and the Great Irish Famine, edited by Jacqueline Hill and Cormac O’Grada, Lilliput Press, 1983.
Alain Collier, The Crofting Problem, Cambridge University Press, 1953.
Crofters Commission, The Way Forward (Highland Renewal), Inverness.
F. Fraser Darling, West Highland Survey, Oxford University Press, 1955.
E. Mairi MacArthur, Iona: Living Memory of a Crofting Community, 1750–1914, Edinburgh University Press, 1990.
Alan MacQuarrie, Iona through the Ages, Society of West Highland and Island Historical Research, 1983.
P. A. Macnab, Mull and Iona, David & Charles, 1970.
Carol Riddell, Tireragan: A Township on the Ross of
Mull: A Study in Local History. This describes the present restoration of Tireragan, the remains of an old township in the Ross of Mull. Published by Highland Renewal at Knockvologon, Fionnphort, Isle of Mull, PA66 6BN, 1996.
Peter MacNab, Mull and the Clearances
