Bushcraft Basics, page 7
My collection of stocking caps range from light to heavy. I may start out wearing a stocking cap, and then layer another on top of it if the weather or conditions call for it. Despite the versatility of stocking caps, there are a few things to consider before buying one:
• Material: Don’t buy a cotton cap for cold weather or a wool one for heat. The material of the cap will help determine when it should be used, and you don’t want to get them mixed up. Wool stays warm when wet, which makes it a bad choice for dealing with the heat.
• Weave: A tight-knit hat will tend to be warm, and a loose construction will allow heat to dissipate quicker. Don’t get a loose weave cap for warmth.
• Size: A beanie is typically not large enough to cover your face and nose if needed. Conversely, a large hat may be bulky and too hot.
Naturally, you may end up in entirely different situations, and your preferences probably differ.
But a hat that protects your head should be in your survival clothing, so find one you like.
Best Wool Outdoor Pants
One of the first cold weather clothing items you should get is a pair of wool pants. If you are a bushcrafter or survivalist type who lives in the colder regions, consider the pants as an integral part of your emergency gear. Here is how to pick the right wool pants.
As always, decide where you will most likely be wearing these pants, and under what conditions. Wool may not be the best choice in hot weather, because it holds heat. But it also breathes, and that can be important for staying cool. But wool is the absolute best choice for cold, wet weather.
Conversely, there are no worse pants for winter survival than denim jeans. The cotton cloth sucks heat from your body, and once the material gets wet, the moisture wicks through the fabric until it’s completely soggy.
While there are synthetic clothing options available, for my money, nothing beats wool in winter. Where I live in Central Oregon, wool is my favorite material for pants about six months out of the year.
Wool pants can be inexpensive: At the local surplus store, I purchased a lightweight pair of wool pants for $7.95. And once you find a good wool garment, it will last seemingly forever. My old Lands’ End red wool sweater has served me well for the past twenty-five years, and it’s still going strong. The biggest danger is my wife sending the sweater to the thrift store!
To make sure the pants will fit—be aware of “vanity sizing”: On most pants, the actual waist measurement is larger than the size printed on the label. The inseam size on pants are fairly accurate, but when it comes to the waist, all bets are off. For example, I wear a size thirty-two jeans in the waist. But my actual waist size is between thirty-three and thirty-four inches. Try the pants on before buying them. Sizes vary among different brands, and American sizes are not necessarily consistent with foreign surplus sizes.
Here are some things to consider before buying any wool pants:
• Size: Get a couple inches or so bigger around the waist because the wool will probably shrink with use. You may want to wear polypropylene long underwear underneath, or synthetic pajama bottoms if wool makes you itch. The best choice is an underlayer of Merino wool. It will be warm, comfortable, and relatively odor free. Don’t wear one hundred percent cotton thermal long johns—eventually, they will get damp from perspiration and suck the heat away. Also, you’ll want plenty of room in the seat and thighs of the pants if the plans include vigorous snow sports such as snowshoeing or cross-country skiing.
• Not too long: While it may be the style to wear pants cuffs that drag on the ground, that isn’t going to work well in snow or mud. With gaiters, you’ll have to tuck the pant legs in them, and the unnecessary bulk can be a pain.
• Lots of pockets: I carry a BIC butane lighter in my pocket to keep the fuel warm and functioning. I also need other pocket survival gear, and having large pockets is incredibly handy. Some items, such as batteries, must be kept warm for them to function and you’ll need a place to carry them.
• Sturdy belt loops or suspender links: Wool can get heavy, and a belt or suspenders will be needed. Suspenders are great if you don’t want the bulk of a belt around your waist. They will also allow you to comfortably strap on a fanny pack or the belt of a daypack.
• Cost: Surplus wool pants can range in price from under ten dollars to about thirty dollars. Go to the high end Filson or L.L. Bean pants and you’ll spend upward of $120. You get what you pay for, but I’ve never seen the need for high-priced wool pants.
The next consideration is the weight, or thickness, of the pants. Obviously, the colder the weather, the thicker the material you’ll need. In the surplus arena, there are usually three different weights.
• Lightweight dress slacks: These are designed to go with military dress uniforms, and the fabric may be no thicker than jeans. They are much warmer than jeans, though, and are a good choice for early fall. They won’t have a lot of pockets, but will be very comfortable when the weather is chilly.
• Medium weight: This is generally the weight I wear most of the time in the winter. They are usually standard military wear and the weight most commonly available. The medium weight are comfortable from about sixty degrees down to the teens, depending on your activity level.
• Arctic: I have a couple pairs of Swedish heavy-duty woolies, and they are too hot unless it is very cold. But when the temperature is in the single digits, these pants come through just fine.
Wool doesn’t have to be cleaned after every use. In fact, excessive washing will eventually remove the lanolin in the fiber that makes the wool water repellent. Cleaning wool is easy. I wash my stuff after an outing with regular laundry soap and warm water, then air dry them. Initially, there will be some shrinkage but if the pants were a little large in the first place, they will soon fit fine.
Check out the local surplus or thrift stores. You might find a fine piece of wool survival gear for a very good price.
Choose the Best Socks
Cold, sore feet have a way of making you hate life. The correct boots or shoes you choose for an activity are really important, but the socks will also have a major impact.
I once chose my least-suitable boots for a cold, rainy Mississippi deer hunt. They are ordinary, uninsulated leather work shoes, not waterproof, and I chose them over my waterproof, insulated Sorels, or heavy insulated boots. The idea was to see if the right socks and felt insoles would make a difference in keeping my feet warm.
The plan was to test the comparative warmth value of several different types of socks. To do that, I had to risk cold feet. The socks were to be cotton, wool, synthetic, and a wool/synthetic blend. The consistency in this unscientific test was my tried-and-tested alpaca wool insoles.
I find these insoles used in uninsulated boots gives an extra ten degrees of warmth. This becomes particularly important when you’re out in seasonal weather where it is freezing at night and warm during the day.
These types of weather conditions happen frequently when hunting elk in the Oregon high desert in the late November season. It will be really cold in the mornings when we’re waiting on stands. Then, at about ten in the morning, we start moving, and the extra exertion soon makes shedding layers necessary. Those heavy, insulated boots that felt so good in the morning soon become heavy and hot.
Quality insoles and insulated socks can make all the difference when it comes to keeping your feet warm. Most of these socks are on the expensive end—we’re looking at twenty to forty dollars per pair. They are an investment, so think about these factors before you put the money down for a pair:
• Know what you are looking for. Are the socks going to be worn in waders in cold water? In insulated boots, while you’re snowshoeing or winter camping? For hiking or backpacking? All these activities might require different designs.
• Make sure your boots aren’t too small for the socks. Sometimes, people will buy a boot that fits fine with regular socks. But the thicker, insulated socks may be too bulky. If you have to cram your feet into the boot, and they are too tight, your feet will get cold. There needs to be enough room to wiggle your toes when the boots are laced.
• Don’t buy cheap socks. There is always the temptation to scrimp on some items, especially socks. After all, you may have a dozen pairs of cotton athletic socks to wear to the gym, so why not wear them? Get a good pair of quality insulated socks, and only wear them when the cold weather warrants it. Wear the cotton socks working in the yard or at activities where cold feet might not be an issue.
Before you start sock shopping, know how to assess warmth. Sock warmth is measured in TOGs (Thermal Overall Grade). A TOG, according to Dictionary.com, is “a unit of thermal resistance used to measure the power of insulation of a fabric, garment or quilt, etc.”
A basic cotton sock, according to the Heat Holders website, has a rating of TOG 0.33. This compares to an ordinary thermal sock rating of TOG 0.89. Smartwool hunting socks have a rating of TOG 1.23. Heat Holders Socks claim a TOG rating of 2.34.
For this test, I tried out Heat Holders™ synthetics, Dachstein™ wool, and Buffalo Wool™ Trekkers. All are top-end quality socks, and all are quality products. I chose them because they represent different fibers. The cotton socks were standard Russell athletic socks, the kind bought in bundles at box stores. For this comparison, I wore a different brand of sock on each foot. Luckily, my pant legs covered up the mismatched tops!
First up were the Heat Holders and Buffalo Wool. At the end of a long, cold rainy day of deer hunting, neither of my feet grew cold. Both were comfortable to wear hiking long distances, and when I sat on a stand, they kept my feet warm.
The Heat Holders seemed to be slightly warmer than the Buffalo Wool, but they made my foot sweaty and they kept falling down. To make sure it wasn’t just me, a couple of hardcore duck hunters tried out the Heat Holders to test them in waders in icy cold water.
After using the Heat Holders, both waterfowlers commented that while their feet didn’t get cold, they did get sweaty. We all wondered if this could eventually lead to moisture problems in severe cold. Nobody appreciated how the Heat Holders fell down around the ankle. (I found it damned annoying.) In waders, when you’re waist deep in cold water, that leads to cold feet.
One of the duck hunters ended up pulling cotton tube socks over the Heat Holders to hold them up. The Buffalo Wool are mid-calf high, and they do stay up in boots. They appear to be slightly less warm than the Heat Holders, but they breathe better and my feet didn’t get sweaty. They are very soft, and appear to keep their shape very well. They might be the best sock to wear over extended periods of time.
(From left) The Heat Holders and the Buffalo Wool are thick, heavily insulated socks for winter and cold weather use. The Merino wool socks are thinner, but breathe well, and are an excellent choice for hot weather wear.
These heavy wool socks will keep your feet warm, even when wet.
I wear wool socks year round and so do several other experienced backpackers and hikers I hang out with. I tried out the Dachstein one hundred percent wool socks and used them extensively on winter hikes and a campout in the Oregon Cascades.
To check the warmth, I wore the uninsulated shoes, and a thick cotton sock on one foot, and a Dachstein on the other and went hiking in the snow. There was no comparison in warmth. The cotton foot got cold immediately, while the wool sock kept my foot warm and toasty.
At a winter campout, I wore the same heavy Dachstein socks all day in my insulated Sorels. The temperatures were well below freezing, and the wool kept my toes warm, but by the end of the day they were noticeably damp. I switched to a dry pair, and the improvement in warmth was immediately noticeable. I always change to dry wool socks before climbing into my sleeping bag at night, and I never get cold feet while sleeping.
The Dachsteins are thick, so make sure to wear a boot that is roomy enough with them.
Any of the socks mentioned in this section might be the best choice for you. Just make sure to read the labels, find out what materials the socks are made of, and get the correct-sized boots. And remember to change your socks frequently.
Your feet will thank you.
Five Reasons to Wear Wool Socks Year Round
I wear wool socks year-round for hiking. People get it in the winter, but wool in the summer might seem a little strange.
Well, the Bedouin nomads in the Arabian and Syrian deserts have been adapting to one of the harshest climates on earth for thousands of years. They wear long, wool robes to cope with the extreme heat and cold of desert nights. According to the film Lawrence of Arabia, Bedouins make their own clothes from the wool of their camels, sheep, and goats. The design of the clothes is both functional and fashionable. They figured out that wool is a great material to regulate body temperature, and we can learn from them.
In my experience of learning things the hard way, what doesn’t work well is hiking in one hundred percent cotton socks in waterproof or water resistant boots. Your foot perspiration will soon soak through the sock, and the boot will hold the moisture in. You’ll end up walking in perpetually soggy socks that soften your feet and cause blisters. Sore feet are a given.
Wool socks come in different thicknesses and styles, and they are worth considering if you’re planning a long trek, or just want to have comfortable feet on a desert hike. And wool dress socks may prove to be more comfortable in the office than any other options.
Here are five reasons why wool may be the best sock material for you:
1. Wool insulates well: That means the material keeps your feet warm, but will also keep your feet cooler. Your feet sweat normally, and hot temperatures will just make things worse. You’ll need a sock that can insulate from the ground and ambient heat as well as provide padding.
2. Wool breathes: Waterproof or water-resistant boots may be fine in colder weather, but they can be an abomination in hot weather. What works for me for desert day hiking is a pair of Merrell Moab Ventilators, wool socks and ankle high, breathable gaiters. Since the shoes and socks breathe, and the gaiters keep out the sand, dirt, and trail debris, this combination is comfortable, lightweight, and practical.
3. Wool wears well: Wool is tough. The socks I use regularly hold out well, and generally last at least a season of heavy use. Premium wool socks can last a long, long time if you take care of them, and don’t wear them around the house as slippers!
4. Wool is reasonably priced: Heavy wool socks for winter activities are an investment, and they don’t come cheap. You really get what you pay for.
Every fall, I buy a three-pack of Merino wool crew socks at Costco, and they’ll last me a season of hunting, fishing, and camping. Recycle good, used wool socks where they will be appreciated.
5. Wool is comfortable: Wool socks are the comfort kings. In my outdoor life, that’s all I wear. In my indoor life, where I may wear a coat, slacks, and tie to work, wool dress socks are standard.
You can get cheap cotton socks at the bigger box stores for about a buck a pair, and for kicking around town, they’ll probably be just fine. But it’s poor logic to buy good hiking boots and then wear cotton socks in them.
And don’t forget to get some thick felt insoles—they can add another ten degrees of comfort to your boots, and quality insoles may allow you to wear a lighter boot in colder weather. This is particularly nice for hunters, who may start the day sitting on a stand, and then end up doing a lot of walking. Or if you work on cold concrete all day, you may be able to wear those comfortable work boots year round.
Buy wool socks. You’ll be glad you did.
Choose the Best Hiking Boots
You can’t compromise quality on hiking boots. Sore, wet, cold feet can ruin an outing. In the worst case scenario, inadequate footwear could create a survival situation.
This footwear collection should cover just about any situation. (Front row, from left) Flip-flops, water shoes, low-ankle trail hikers. (Back row, from left) Ankle-high, uninsulated boots, tall, insulated hunting boots, Sorel snow boots.
Buy quality boots that fit your feet well, and make sure they are well broken-in before heading out on a hike or other adventure.
Don’t do this:
Flashback: I spent the month of August, 1977, hiking in the Beartooth Mountains of Montana and Yellowstone National Park. I started out wearing a pair of Georgia brand logger boots that had seen a lot of hard use the year before.
In 1976, I wore the Georgias on backpacking trips to the Pryor and Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming. Then I wore them on the 225-mile John Muir Trail in California, and added another twenty to thirty miles hiking across Yosemite.
The Georgias served me well, but one sole separated as we were hiking out of the Beartooths. Headed for Yellowstone in a couple of days, I couldn’t find a boot repair place in Billings. So much against my better judgement, I bought a new pair of leather Lowa hiking boots to wear. Breaking in started immediately. I put them on with hiking socks, and waded in a creek outside the outdoor store to get them thoroughly soaked. Then I walked until they were dry.
A day or so later, when I was dropped off at the east entrance to Yellowstone, the boots were still stiff and inflexible. For the next fourteen days, I hiked the Thorofare Creek and South Loop. I wore the Lowas until my feet grew sore, then switched over to my Adidas running shoes. The Adidas were excellent hiking shoes on the trail. In one instance, I had to wade and hike well over a mile through a flooded meadow where beaver dams backed up the water over the trail. Without the backup running shoes, my feet would have gotten even sorer.
On my last day in Yellowstone, I walked to Old Faithful Inn in a snowstorm, wearing my soggy Adidas. The moral to the story: don’t even think about breaking-in boots during a hiking trip, and take along a backup pair of shoes.
