Ravenswood Dreaming, page 57
The end of the decade was now in sight. It was August 1859 and the ship had returned to Fremantle with the largest cargo of sugar ever imported into the colony together with tea, coffee, rice, timber planks and assorted spices and sundries for sale in the shop. The inevitable problems with the ageing ship and the crew and the massive tasks of unloading and reloading was taking its toll on John. He had been going to sea in ships now for nearly two decades. He decided to take an extended break and accompany Elizabeth and the children south to the Murray and visit her mother and the rest of her family at Redcliffe farm.
This was to be a major undertaking, transporting John, Elizabeth and five children and a baby and all their luggage 50 miles south to Redcliffe farm on the Murray River. To do this they booked a coach to transport Elizabeth, Jane and the baby and hired a horse and dray to transport their luggage. Elizabeth and the two girls left a day early on the coach and John and the boys left very early the following day with the dray.
This was quite an adventure in itself especially for the three youngest boys. John allowed the boys to take a turn at holding the reins. They stopped several times for the boys to urinate from the back of the dray, which was quite a novelty in itself, and then at a wayside inn in Mandurah and purchased some bread and cheese for lunch. The journey took most of the day. At Redcliffe their arrival after sunset was cause for some celebration and congratulations at completing such a journey. George and James, the two younger ones, had great delight in recounting some of the sights and experiences of the journey especially being allowed to pee off the back of the dray and being able to hold the reins.
Elizabeth’s brother Joseph took charge of the dray and horses and gave them a well-earned feed and a warm dry stall in the barn for the night.
For the next two weeks the families enjoyed one another’s company. At first there was only Joseph and his wife Caroline and their children and John and Elizabeth and their four children plus the baby and of course John Fredrick who was now 17 and could hardly be described as a child.
There was plenty to do and see for the children who roamed around the farm with their cousins. There were animals cows, goats and horses, to be patted and fed. When that was done, fowls, ducks and turkeys to be checked and eggs to be gathered and bran and pollard to be mixed. Kangaroos and wild birds to be spotted and finally fishing in the river. They were never still, there was always something to do, something to watch, something to listen to. They ate well, slept deeply and rose early.
Elizabeth and Caroline, her sister-in-law, chatted and knitted and crocheted, planned and prepared meals, walked in the bush and down by the river and talked about private things that women share with one another. Then in the evening when all was quiet they sat and talked some more over a pot of tea.
John and John-Fredrick did very little except accompany Joseph around the farm. They helped out with farm chores planting vegetables, milking the cows, repairing fences and gates. For John it was a welcome change from the endless paper work, and the relentless tasks of arranging the discharge of cargoes, negotiating the contracts for export of produce, assembling a crew for the next voyage and the long and tiring days and nights at sea. For his son it was all an interesting and new experience. He was happy to just tag along.
In the second week Elizabeth’s sister and her husband Anthony Cornish paid them a visit and were persuaded to stay the night. That evening they spent gathered around the piano singing and dancing and dined on fish and beef cooked using the new method known as barbeque which had been introduced by the American whalers.
Later that week they decided to explore the river. They borrowed a boat from Joseph, packed a picnic lunch and set off down the river hoping to get as far as the mouth where it opened out into the estuary and to visit their old friend Adam Armstrong.
Their association with the Armstrongs stretched back to the early days on the Swan River when they had picked up produce and delivered supplies to Dalkeith, Adam senior’s very successful farm. The old man had sold Dalkeith and moved back to the Murray with his family when the threat from the Aboriginal people had been erased. He and his sons had successfully farmed the property until Adam senior had passed away in 1851. Since then his son Adam Junior had run the property.
Following the river, the distance was about 12 miles to the mouth. The Armstrong’s property, Ravenswood, was about 7 miles, around two hours rowing. They reached the landing at Ravenswood at 10:30. Adam Armstrong was sitting on a bench waiting for them. He had received word that a boat with three people and some children on board was on its way down the river and had calculated what time it would pass. He had heard on the grapevine that the Thomas family were staying at Redcliffe farm and surmised that it was them.
The description that one of his Aboriginal workers had given fitted. Even if they had not been going to call in he intended to invite them to stop for cup of tea. John was always amazed at how news and people’s movements was passed up and down the river. Partly it was the way Aboriginal people were, very observant and aware of river traffic. It was also part of the way of life of the settlers on the river who, out of habit and necessity, looked out for one another.
The Thomas family spent about two hours at Ravenswood reminiscing over years past and looking around the farm. John noticed a large herd of goats, these were a specialty of the Armstrong’s when they owned the farm in Dalkeith. They had bred goats for many years since arriving in the colony. Their father’s reputation as a breeder of goats was well known along the Swan River when the family lived at Dalkeith.
While there at Ravenswood Adam let slip that they planned to sell the farm very soon and move back to Fremantle. On hearing this news John and Elizabeth exchanged glances. A glimmer of hope planted itself in Elizabeth’s mind. Would John consider it? She said nothing. The idea though would not go away. How good would it be to live here on the Murray with the whole family together, not far from her former home at Redcliffe. Her mother just up the river. No more would she have to say goodbye to her husband wondering whether she would ever see him again. To be able to finish bringing up her children on such a farm. The healthy life they could have, fresh air, fresh food straight out of the garden. Fresh meat, fresh chicken and eggs and fish. Her children working around the farm. Good honest work, learning the skills that she herself and her brothers had learned as children.
Later that afternoon back at Redcliffe, Elizabeth raised the matter with her mother. The reaction was as she knew it would be. Her mother could hardly contain her excitement at the prospect of having her eldest daughter living nearby. Elizabeth warned her not to bring up the subject in front of John. She wanted to discuss the idea with John, alone, without any interference.
That evening in bed Elizabeth couldn’t believe her luck. It was John who broached the subject of the sale of Ravenswood. Not so much that but he began with the confession that I’m getting a bit worn out and tired of life on the sea. Physically it is very demanding and I’m not as capable as I was in the early days. The days and nights out at sea are far from easy. Quite often my sleep is interrupted by some matter that needs my attention, or a storm is threatening. Or the ship is becalmed and being carried along by tides or currents and we needed to drop anchor to avoid the ship being carried off course or drifting near rocks or a dangerous coast. Further, I think that the children are growing up without their father and I want to spend more time with them before it is too late.
John, I would like nothing better than for you to give up going to sea. I worry that something might happen to you. I could not bear it if you were lost at sea. It is a dangerous occupation. I don’t doubt that you are careful and I know you are very experienced but perhaps you have pushed your luck far enough and eventually it will run out. We have enough saved and enough assets to live very comfortably for the rest of our lives. You don’t need to go back to sea.
Yes I know that but I am still a relatively young man, I have to do something. I’m not ready to sit down in a rocking chair and smoke cigars. He paused and looked at her, waiting for her response. He had a feeling that they were both thinking the same thing. He recalled that she had met his gaze when Adam Armstrong said that he was thinking of selling.
We could buy a farm, Ravenswood is practically on the market, he ventured.
Her heart skipped a beat. She fought to remain calm. Yes we could. We probably have enough in our account without changing very much. Would you like to do that? Do you think you would be happy doing that? She waited.
Yes I think I would. When my family arrived on the Gilmore it was my father’s and mother’s intention to acquire land through that disastrous Peel Scheme. My father always “dreamed” of becoming a land owner but it was not within his reach back in England or Wales. William Gaze had the same “dream”. After he was killed I gave up thinking about anything like that. His death was confirmation that the warnings given by Mr Anderson, the foreman back at the timber mill, were fairly accurate. It’s a sad state of affairs but the Aboriginal people have been vanquished and the land has been taken from them. We, the boatmen and the traders, though we did not actively participate in dispossessing them have profited from their demise. Robert Lyon declared it was wrong to take their land and not provide for them. But it is done now and we cannot change it. Someone will inevitably own that land.
Yes they will. If you are serious we would need to move very quickly. We can talk more about the idea in the morning. We should go to sleep now.
But they did not sleep. The country air and the possibility of buying Ravenswood had excited them and kindled a renewed need for intimacy in both of them.
The following morning they agreed that the possibility of buying Ravenswood should be explored. John was due back in Fremantle and so it was decided that Elizabeth, who looked after all their financial matters anyway, would make the inquiries and if possible negotiate the purchase of Ravenswood.
Back in Fremantle, John and his son John Frederick began the tasks arranging the next cargo for Singapore. Meanwhile John had advertised for an experienced captain to take over as master of the Empress. Several people had applied for the position and William had narrowed it down to two. He and John, after a final short interview, settled on one, Captain Joseph Church. He was a very experienced having been the captain of the Rory-O-More prior to John purchasing her. He had landed in Fremantle some months back as the first officer of a Scottish trader and was still desirous of having his own command.
He would now take command of the Empress and William would sign on as first mate on the Rory-O-More. John Frederick who was keen to learn as much as he could from his father and his Uncle William, was to sign on as a junior mate under the supervision of his uncle.
Loading the cargo for the Rory-O-More was well underway and continued for another few weeks. It seemed that this ship was to continue to break records.
Over 15000 sandalwood logs were loaded, leaving only a small part of the hold for a modest shipment of the finest Swan River flour. Finally, after just over three months in the harbour she set sail at the end of November. The voyage north up the coast of the continent and across to the entrance to Sunda Strait was relatively easy with time for the crew to repair damaged sails and generally check and tighten the rigging. Two weeks later they passed Krakatoa Island and entered the Sunda Strait. That was the end of the pleasant weather and favourable winds. It seemed that mother nature threw every obstacle in their path. Squalls, head winds and heavy weather prevented any progress. Then as if the gods of the sea were mocking them the winds died away to nothing in the Bangka Strait and to avoid being pushed back by tides and currents they were forced to anchor and wait for a change. The temperature soared during the day and dropped very little during the nights. With no breeze the air was hot and heavy and difficult to breathe. Their sleep was far from restful and the morning brought the merciless sun to bake them for another day. The days melted into weeks and still the ship struggled to make any headway. Two weeks later they had still failed to clear Lingen Point at the northern end of Bangka Island. They were running short of firewood and the ship was taking in water somewhere up near the bow and this was somewhat worrying.
Finally early on the 20th of January a breeze stirred the sails and the ship got under way. Five days later they dropped anchor in Singapore Harbour and the work of preparing the ship for a lengthy stay began.
Two days later a steady stream of boats came along side and began the laborious task of unloading the huge cargo of sandalwood. This took another fifteen days during which time men were employed to find and repair the leak near the bow and a team of men were given the task of inspecting the ship and re-caulking where necessary and repainting the hull.
The crew were kept busy checking and replacing rigging and mending sails. Inevitably though some of them asked for a discharge and found work on other ships to other ports around the globe. Some went ashore and got drunk and lost in the bars and brothels and disappeared. Consequently replacements had to be found and signed on.
John was also kept busy bringing his accounts up to date as this trip to Singapore could be his last for a long time. He also took the opportunity to stock up on some tailored clothing and boots thinking he may not get the chance again. As well as that he bought several rolls of satin cloth for Elizabeth to use, thinking that what was left if any could always be sold in the shop or given to her mother.
With thoughts about winding back his and his brother’s personal involvement in the shipping trade John engaged an agent to sell the Empress. He envisaged that if necessary the two of them could continue sailing the Rory O’ More, taking turn about for the voyages north to the Asian ports. She was able to carry huge cargoes and the income from exporting and importing was enough to support both of them. A few weeks later in early March the Empress sold. John was sad to see her go as the beautiful ship had been the mainstay of the company for nearly 14 years.
The repairs and maintenance to the Rory-O-More’s hull, the discharging of over 15000 sandalwood logs, renewing and replacing rigging and sails, painting the hull, replacing some of the crew and finally negotiating for a return cargo and then waiting for the boats to deliver it to the ship took, in the vicinity of, two months.
They had arrived in Singapore on the 25th of January and finally set sail for Fremantle on the 22nd of March 1860 propelled by a healthy north wind which backed around to the east as the day progressed. Within two days the weather had deteriorated somewhat and was quite changeable and unpredictable, varying between heavy squally periods and complete calms. This meant that the crew were kept busy changing sails, reefing sails and adjusting sails. Despite this fickle weather the ship made good time and on the 31st of March they passed Krakatoa at the western end of the Sunda Strait.
By this time John Frederick was becoming quite proficient at taking readings and charting a course. Under the close scrutiny of his uncle William he took the readings and charted a course which would keep Christmas Island on their port side and take the ship in a south westerly direction out into the middle of the Indian Ocean.
The first day out they were ploughing into fast moving swell that crashed head on into the ship, sending huge showers of water and spray over the entire length of the upper deck. On the horizon to the west they could see an ominous layer of thick purple-black cloud that seemed to be moving in a northerly direction as if it was circling the ship and closing in on their stern. The wind which was from the north east gradually increased to gale force and backed quickly around to the east and caught them off guard. It sliced through the sails and ripped the top gallant sail on the main mast to shreds. For the next twelve hours the squally unpredictable spells appeared suddenly and raked the ship, sometimes accompanied by huge rain drops which fell in long glass needles and shattered on the deck and superstructure. All the while the wind howled around the masts and the rigging like some primeval beast.
Throughout that night the wind and the waves continued to torment the crew. Ropes were strung the length of the ship so that they could move around without being knocked off their feet or washed overboard. In the morning more sails had been torn away or split down the middle but they could do nothing, it was too dangerous to go aloft. No one had slept. Hour after hour the giant waves continued to slam into the ship and wash over the deck.
About mid-day the wind subsided enough to enable the crew to launch the ship’s boat as a precaution in the event that the ship broke apart or was badly holed and they were forced to abandon her. The boat was stocked with water and bread and large rounds of cheese. Oars, rowlocks, a mast, boom and sails were laid lengthways across the thwarts and tied in position.
Two of the crew had experienced these weather conditions before on voyages to Hong Kong. They told how their ship had been hit by extremely dangerous winds for a day and then it had subsided to almost an eerie calm for some hours. Then the storm conditions returned except that the wind had gone around 180 degrees. There were indications that they were in the middle of such a storm as the barometer had continued to fall. On land a large storm like this would hit the coast and pass on after one or two days. Out in the ocean it was different. A ship was often carried along in various directions by the wind and the waves and so the storm, as it moved, tended to hang on to the ship and took longer to pass.
While the wind had subsided the waves continued and John reasoned that somewhere in the distance unseen storm conditions were creating them. They were now sailing with one forward topsail and one main topsail and a small jib to provide better steerage.
On the following morning they were greeted with more strong squalls and heavy driving rain, almost a repeat of the first day. The cook managed to provide everyone with some broth with beef and potatoes served in a mug so that it could be eaten on deck and a chunk of bread. John ordered a tot of rum (to wash it down) be issued to each crew member. It would be good for morale. He feared the weather was building up again and urged them to do their best and look after one another because their lives and the ship were at stake.
